Recent content by drives

I think you are confusing kwh input of the ashp with the output? A 9kW heat pump isn't equivalent to a 35kW boiler. Both figures relate to the heat output. 9kW is still plenty for most homes and certainly assuming you are referring to heat only/system boilers, a 35, 25, or indeed 20kW boiler...

Yeah I agree about maintenance. In the grand scheme of things, the grout will be a small proportion of the total cost. I'd imagine your main issue will be getting the contractor to use it as it isn't as easy to use as regular grout. That said, it really isn't difficult.

I would go for a tray, for the reasons you allude to above. I also personally think they look just as good if all well designed, if not better. I'd also specify epoxy grout anywhere in a shower room. Why normal (porous) grout is used in wet areas when a waterproof product is available I have...

Can’t advise on all of the above but if it helps…. Why the LG in particular? SCOP figures would be largely the same Id expect for other units. Is 16kW required- that is very high heat loss if that is what has been specified. With your last question surely the ashp would simply prioritise DHW...

To do what I believe you want to do, I did the following: I bought two of these... push fit shut off valve I then used some elbows to make some right angled short pipe runs to fit on the other end so I could direct the flow into a bucket as I opened the valve.

Agree with others that the last thing I'd suspect to be the problem is the kW heat output of your boiler and moreso distribution/balancing. Average 4 bed will be around 8-10kW heat loss so at a [very] rough guess from what you describe your house would have a heat loss of 12-15kW.... Flow rate...

Yes I think that is probably fair. If I could do it all again I'd probably just be running one cable from wall up to the grid switch and looping it at the back of the switch as has been suggested. There isn't much to take photos of now as it's all hidden, but....everything up and running.

@SUNRAY the flex outlet plate is on the supply side, so I have my cable run from the consumer unit which goes to a single flex outlet plate behind the cabinets. I have short flex coming from this, and then this is connected up via 3 way wagos to two 2.5mm cables. These then supply the two grid...

I have a dedicated circuit for the fridge freezer with 20amp rcd. I needed to relocate the original socket/supply so I reran this to where I needed it to go, and then used a 20amp unswitched flex outlet plate on a recessed back box.

Yes it is for 2 appliances- intergrated fridge, and separate integrated freezer. I have a fuse and switch for each. I just took a photo of 1 of each. I have cut off the plugs, and used wago connectors in a wagobox underneath the units to connect each appliance cable to 2.5mm T+E (as in each...

Thanks. Might swap it around then

Ah ok. I have actually done it the other way around. I have the live wire from my flex outlet in the wall going into L1 (fuse), then I have linked this to L supply on my switch with a short wire. As in the supply live connection goes to the fuse first rather than the switch as shown above...

Thanks both. I was pretty sure it didn’t matter as the terminals are obviously just either end of the fuse but just wanted to check- and that is how I’ve wired it with L1 in and L2 out.

Hi all, I have some grid switches ready to install for some kitchen appliances, specifically a fridge and a freezer. This includes the 13A fuse within the grid switch. I was however expecting to see Live in, and then load on the fuse so my supply cable live would connect to L in, and then I'd...

All I can say is how does it work fine in our house then with relatively stable temperatures across all rooms. I've put a graph on the above post which evidences it. I can post more if you like of loads of temp sensors I have dotted around the house. If I put a temp sensor right by the oven...