Recent content by drives

Subjective of course but no match for real wood or nice porcelain tiles. It is plastic based/composite after all. Any click lvt will be also be prone to the click system failing with the slightest of undulations. If it has to be lvt (which I personally don’t think it does) I’d definitely be...

Was just about to say the same thing. I have never seen a decent looking/durable click LVT floor...

Our house is suspended timber floors and I've gone for tiles in large areas. In my kitchen I have 900x900 format tiles with no issues. The tiles in my hallway have been down for 6 years now. Again fine. 6mm hardiebacker on layer of adhesive, screwed down. Taped joints between boards and tiles...

As you allude to it is a proper engineering job and not cheap to do it properly. When we did similar, it was two courses of blockwork, with rebar in the cavity (which was also anchored within the footings) and then infilled with concrete. We then had a separate drainage spec which was...

Try a bottle of leak sealer. It worked for us with a similar slow leak, and no ill effects.

Agree with above- 100% use epoxy grout in wet areas. Why anyone uses porous cementitous grout in shower areas, I personally don't understand. It is not only non porous but also much more structurally sound as well so far less prone to cracking. Taking into account what your builder has done...

heating our house with gas in winter was expensive. Pretty much cost neutral for us as said.

Just make sure emitter size is sufficient to match the heat loss, at reasonably efficient outlet flow temps. Then keep it running when cold outside, with no drastic setbacks.

Why does everyone think ashps are only suitable for highly insulated properties? We changed a quarter of our radiators. Poorly insulated house. Works fine. Granted it’s pretty cost neutral energy cost- wise so I wouldn’t install one expecting to save money necessarily (unless you have storage...

No. If system designed correctly they can run reasonably efficiently in any property really.

@Deluks it is more or less level. That part is fine- that wasn't my question specifically. Perhaps I didn't explain it very well. It just says not to backer board over concrete subfloors but in my case I need to overboard this small section otherwise the only way of levelling the tiles is to...

Hi all, Bit of an unusual tiling situation. I am laying floor tiles in front of a fireplace surround (which I am also cladding with tiles) and part of the subfloor is floorboards, and the other is concrete as you can see from the photo. The concrete part is the hearth which I have repaired and...

If you follow the usual advice of not sealing on the inside of that vertical profile trim, how will it not leak? If as step one you do the sealant between tray and wall, let it set, then install the profile trim- the sharp right angle of the trim at the bottom will disrupt the sealant that you...

Just a different school of thought I guess and perhaps neither is wrong, as long as there is a strategy to prevent corrosion. I'm not an expert either and hadn't really considered anything other than inhibitor until recently and having done some reading up on it.

No nothing really- it's just there to get rid of microbubbles so any gas from the vent is barely detectable, or certainly not now that it's been running for a few months since last drain and refill. It seems to be working fine and our system water is very clean. I hardly get anything from our...