Why are you so desperate to keep the bloody purlin :?: :!: You''ve probably already got 50x100 rafters. Another 50x100 alongside, maybe a 50x125 will almost certainly mean you can get rid of the purlin and then you don't have to go throught all the hassle of resupporting it. At worst you lose...
Yes I looked on Planning Portal and found the info I was looking for, It' works out more expensive than Kingspan but this way you put them right over the rafters and leave the 50mm air gap behind without having to make your excisting rafters larger.
Superfoil SF40 multilayer foil is the name...
Insulation is not a problem as I have the space blanket insulation and not kingspan due to keeping as much head height as poss. I believe that middle purlin is carrying the majority of the middle section of weight and just believe I need to support that purlin at differnet points as much as...
I was not really planning on removing the purlins as yes sistering the rafters would lower the space we have in the loft so don't really want to go down that road.
If that is the only option is it possible to sister and leave the purlins in?
Yes they are brick build all the way down black mortar lovely it's a 1940's semi. If I remove the purlin though even strengthen the rafters would that not make it as stong? As I would have thought that purlin is providing a good deal of support to those rafeters?
Thanks for the reply again, Funny enough I have just emailed across this idea to him and hope to get a reply. I am not planning on removing any of purlins the middle purlins we were simply going to rub down and paint to make a feature as I understand the support the give to the roof. As per my...
Many Thanks for the reply. Ok according to the calculations the steels we have support the floor load only as it is assumed the steel is unsupported through it's entire length, so if this steel was supported underneath from the internal walls that would make it's capacity to handle weight...
1st Pic shows where stair access is going to be.
2nd Pic shows the water tank moved to the corner that will be boxes in the fitted wardrobes.
3rd Pic shows the steels cemented into wall on padstones
4th Pic shows how far I have joisted up the 9x2's thus far
5th Pic...
I have attached a picture, This shows the opening we have for the stairway and directly above is where the truss meets the floor, You can see from this angle however that the truss is connected to the binder and not a supporting wall underneath which is the same for all 4 trusses, So my point in...
Right we are going to pack up from the internal walls and have stud walls meeting the centre purlin and 3 different parts of the loft that along with short timebrs going direct from the steels upto the lower purlin and collars across the ridge shold quite easy take any addional weight once those...
Yes the builder got him for us he is a personal friend of his, I am annoyed as the steels are arriving tomorrow so their is no way to change them so just need someone now to maybe tell me what size steels I will get away with to support the roof alongside the purlin or if their is another way as...
£1000 was the cost of the steels, The calcs were £250 I hope the steels for the roof are not as much as £400 each as they are only carrying the weight of part of the roof.
I can scan and put them on here or email them to you but I will have a go.
Span is 4m
6.6m between walls
steel size is 8.5" depth (I think)
I will scan the documents and put them up as I don't know what i'm looking at really.
£50 per beam if it is only that I got no problem, I just paid nearly £1000 for our floor steels, but unsure what size steels I would need of the roof. I went back to the the SE who stated the steels he calculated are for the floor load only so I guess that's a no no.