Recent content by fixitflav

Do you mean the pump iso valves? From the pic they are multi-turn gate valves. If they go several turns both ways before meeting resistance they should be OK.

OK, so I suppose the combi was a replacement for a system with HW cylinder, which would have involved pipework mods. Including some inappropriate ones!

It shouldn't be too difficult to remove the pump body to check the impeller etc, just 4 Allen bolts. No need to disturb the pipework. Close the pump valves first, or if you prefer, partially drain the system. It would be a shame to replace the pump and find it's no better.

Brilliant! Glad to have helped. I only suggested that based on my personal experience, so pleasantly surprised it turned out to be the problem. Unless something was changed when the new boiler went in, I assume it had been like that ever since the house was built in the 1980s.

Of course an infinite number of different situations can arise while driving, and one has to do one's best in the circs, but there are plenty of drivers who will not use the left lane irrespective. I accept that if you're in a van, with poorer visibility than a car, you're entitled to a bit more...

Was the left lane only for leaving the M-way? Plenty of drivers won't use the nearside lane when there's no traffic in it for as far as they can see.

Motorway of how many lanes? And which lane were you in?

You beat me to it! It would have been just as easy to give it a decent fall. But the sleeve on the flue, and the filled hole look nice.

In my house, before it was fixed, there was a route from the pump to the boiler return, in parallel with the the rads. Somewhat surprisingly, there was still enough flow through the rads to do the biz. If yours is like that there is less pressure available across the rads, making balancing more...

iPad playing up, hence blank post! I was going to say maybe 1/4 turn open is too much, but it looks like you've tried turning it down even more. As per #10, maybe the pump output is low, worth checking the impeller isn't blocked with crud. Easier to balance the system with a strong flow. Is...

But as Mr. Loophole Freeman pointed out, it's not just a question of repaying fines and removing points. Some drivers will have lost their licence, and job, because of this.

Almost certainly it's the condensate pipe, but be good to confirm. If so, even if it's insulated it still needs to be piped to a drain. Much better if possible, is to route it to a drain inside the flat, eg to a washing machine or dishwasher drain. That also avoids the frost problem.

If it's worked OK in the past and it's just a case of changing the pump, should be no problem. But I'm curious about the arrangement, where are the rads? If it's pumping downwards as on the sketch, that's non-preferred. I'm not keen on combined feed and vent either.

Plumbing the taps in rigid copper would improve things, so you could insist the installer does it that way. Otherwise he'll almost certainly go for flexis as it's easier. From the pic I can't see any flexis, so maybe the existing is rigid. Alternatively, there are plastic devices fitted under...

I think he means the small white pipe lower down to the right. That might be the condensate outlet pipe, repositioned from the hole 2 bricks' length away to the left. If so, I doubt if it's acceptable. Edit - looking at the pic more closely, the thing to the left could be the outlet from a...