Recent content by functor

Yeah I saw all the options, but are all EPDMs the same? Does thickness really make a difference?

Hello, I am looking for the best value for money EPDM kit for a 4880mm x 3660mm flat workshop roof. I don't mind if its a bit pricey as long as its good and will last long. I found "Firestone EPDM RubberCover 1.52" at £196. Do I need this thickness? Whats the real difference with 1.14...

Yeah.. I am in the end probably going to go with two split extensions with a gap in between (1m / enough for a door). I'll put sliding patio doors on each wall so I dont need to waste 300mm of cavity wall I will break later and since I already have the doors. Then apply for an infill pp.. and...

Thats what I am planning, in fact but there is the issue of external walls being 300mm. My (best) workaround is to put some 2m sliding doors on each side of the two extensions, so I dont have to build useless walls. I already have the sliding doors available... But it's crazy I have to resort to...

Floor: The floor joists do not touch the concrete slab everywhere so it has small holes all over for ventilation. There are two Damp Proof Membranes, one below the concrete slab (only up to a certain point) which was added before I bought the house, and one I put on top of the slab plus the...

My studding is pressure treated and C24, so it's not that big a deal if it gets wet as long as there is air for it to dry. So far I have the following actions I need to take: 1) Loosen the last weatherboard 2) Add some 25mm battens to the cladding to put the insulation on 3) Breather...

I see, makes sense. But if a breather is just for water resistance, are there any insulation slabs that include it on one side? If I loosen the last board, I will also get insects. This means I can't use wool glass since insects love that stuff, and make nests in it. Also polystyrene will...

I know, but I won't get planning permission for this. (I went to a pre planning meeting, and they started saying crap about Original character of the house, Excessive development etc) The thing is they told me I have two choices which I find really really silly. Choice one) Demolish the...

Hi guys, Pictures of the shed I finished building at last: http://imgur.com/a/IU8gI Floor joists and roof joists are 6x2, studs are 4x2. All wood is C24. Cladding is 27mm x 144mm weatherboard. All pressure treated. Flooring is 18mm marine plywood and roofing is 12mm marine plywood with...

The wording in the technical guide is: Where an extension fills the area between a side elevation and a rear wall, then the restrictions on extensions beyond rear walls and side walls will apply.

Hey guys, I recently undertook the project of extending the rear of my house and decided to get a permitted development certificate. The rear profile of my bungalow is flush, but some time in 1980s it used to be L shaped and every bungalow in the area had a square infill to make the rear...

Yeah weatherboard does seem like its holey.. I am planning to put Kingspan insulation between the cladding and a layer of ply sheet for the inside finish. I guess I will go with shiplap as it seems what most nicer sheds use.

I was looking into cladding and it suprised me at how expensive it is in comparison to the rest of a shed. Is there any benefit on using certain cladding over the next? The cheapest I have found is Weatherboard but then Shiplap looks and fits nicer, but is usually double the price... In the...

Yeah makes sense, it's the same in Norway, everything is wood-built over there.