Recent content by Gasguru

You're just transfering the water in the clothing to the warm air you have paid to heat...and that water will readilly condense on cold surfaces. It only works whilst the air and building fabric is sufficiently warm and a sufficient air change to transfer the higher humid air outside. For many...

The water is removed from the cabin air as it condenses on the evaporator fins....and drains out under the vehicle. Same as water condensing on cold windows.

Wilo Yonos Pico 25/1-5-130 is best value quality pump...no point in paying more to cover Grundfos huge marketing budget. 5 year warranty (T&Cs)

Try this... Turn off the boiler. Bleed out all air from all the radiators & boiler and if necessary top up the system pressure to say 1 bar. Now isolate the vessel with your ball valve. Disconnect the loop hose at the cold main valve end and hold the loop facing upwards. Slowly open the filling...

It's pointless having an isolating valve or drain-off on the vessel. When checking the vessel pressure just bleed the rads and drop the system pressure to zero on the filling loop valve. Whenever you have vertical pipe upstands there's never normally a need to drain down the whole system or...

If you're going to do the job properly you should use a plug in relay (for easy replacement) and ensure the contacts are either Silver Tin Oxide AgSnO2 or the newer Silver Tin Indium Oxide (often shown as AgSnIn). Although controlled and limited, modern pump and boiler circuit boards can have...

Gotta be mad spending that much money on a car with zero warranty or legal rights. With starship millage what could go wrong :)

Those bricks are a pain to point.... You'd expect him to use a tuck pointer & hawk to fill the joints, then as the mortar has firmed up it's hit with a churn brush (stiff bristles) to remove any excess from the brick edges (without smearing) and finally the mortar can be compacted with the pointer.

He's making a mess of the brick edges Unless the mortar is exceptionally hard there are attachments that fit grinders specifically for raking out the joints.

He has absolutely no idea what he's doing. Pointing London Rustics is a faff but with the correct technique there is no reason to mark the bricks. I doubt he's even raked out the joints for new pointing to be effective...and what has been done seems random. Do not pay, he may issue a MCOL...

It's a heat pump dryer. Are you cleaning the moisture sensor and evaporator filter (behind the lower cover) on a regular basis ?

Indeed...recirc is on the blower. It looks like the blend actuator is a 5 wire type. 2 wires on one side of the connector will be the motor. The other 3 are the potentioneter with the wiper the centre wire. Straightforward to test with a multimeter.

If the blower is running on all speeds and the pollen filter is clean it sounds like the blending flap/actuator is faulty. Remove the trim panels to the left of the clutch/brake pedal and you should see the actuators and mechanisms for the temperature blending and vent distribution.

AFAIR that particular flue position is not shown on the building regs. or manufacturers diagrams. Gas-Safe tend to suggest we use our "engineering judgement" and of course the unscrupulous installers will not care less whether it's actually safe. It's possible a plume management kit might be...

The following (in no particular order) will sort most issues.... Most of the water sections I came across had the temperature and flow regulators but they were often seized and made little if any difference to the basic operation of the pin. However, unscrew the venturi and clean off any scale...