Recent content by Gasguru

The black "casing" is just an insulation jacket...why does it need to sit against the wall? Backplates are fine as long as you're securing into sound brickwork and position then vertically...

Have a look at Unistrut (and similar). Spring nuts (zeberdees) slot into the channel. Then a "washer", lock nuts and threaded bar allow to locate rubber lined pipe clamps.

Remove the nut and handle....if you're very lucky you might find a gland nut you can tighten down to seal the stem leak. Pretty much all plumbing fixtures are poor quality...and UF heating manifolds often have 100s of potential leak points.

Anyone competent can work on anything given the time (ie. money burned). How many have wasted hours working on their first Viessnanns getting to grips with terrible user interfaces, poor spares backup only to see a few boilers a year...it rarely pays from a business point if view.

Most installers have never seen one...they're a very niche boiler. So good luck finding anyone to service it or merchants to stock parts..imagine a breakdown at Christmas. No one can be bothered to spend hours reading manuals and playing around with boilers they're not familliar with and...

Who did the electrics & gas? If not a qualified fitter you might be able to use illegal work as a lever...

Your could buy a combustion leak tester that fits the expansion vessel...the test liquid changes colour in the presence of combustion products.

Get yourself a 4 bar pressure gauge and a brass reducing bush to screw it into the 3/4 BSP thread washing machine hose. Most gauges are an 1/8 or 1/4 BSP. Then you can monitor the street pressure (under no flow) at different times..

Unfortunately some of those readings aren't helpful as they are not defined as either static pressures (with no water flowing) or dynamic (with water flowing out the taps at a particular flowrate). You can assume the pressure in the pipe in the street is 1.6 bar (measured with no water flow)...

There's plenty if room..run the left pipe along this side of the joist..

You're just transfering the water in the clothing to the warm air you have paid to heat...and that water will readilly condense on cold surfaces. It only works whilst the air and building fabric is sufficiently warm and a sufficient air change to transfer the higher humid air outside. For many...

The water is removed from the cabin air as it condenses on the evaporator fins....and drains out under the vehicle. Same as water condensing on cold windows.

Wilo Yonos Pico 25/1-5-130 is best value quality pump...no point in paying more to cover Grundfos huge marketing budget. 5 year warranty (T&Cs)

Try this... Turn off the boiler. Bleed out all air from all the radiators & boiler and if necessary top up the system pressure to say 1 bar. Now isolate the vessel with your ball valve. Disconnect the loop hose at the cold main valve end and hold the loop facing upwards. Slowly open the filling...

It's pointless having an isolating valve or drain-off on the vessel. When checking the vessel pressure just bleed the rads and drop the system pressure to zero on the filling loop valve. Whenever you have vertical pipe upstands there's never normally a need to drain down the whole system or...