Recent content by gjh

so your suggestion is?

thank you perry.....i'll probably go down the ply route to clad the interior of the shed, i'll have a good 4in of insulation inside the frame of the shed so this should be enough to keep it cool in the summer and warm in the spring/autumn (i dont think we'll be letting them run in and out during...

Richard, as you said, i dont want it to be habitable, however I do want it to be comfortable and long lasting. Its for the kids to play in and when they are too big it'll be for me to play in ;-). How could i control the humidity indside? Or can you suggest an alternative to plastering? I...

I'm going to build my own shed. The floor will be framed using 2x4 pressure treated timbers with an 18mm WPB ply as the deck. I plan to insulate the walls and roof using rockwool. The wall cavity will only be 4in deep between the plasterboard on the inside and the exterior sidings. Is this...

I think i might be over engineering this a bit here...it is afterall only a shed! Reconsidered plan: 1. 12mm pressure treated shiplap 2. pressure treated battons (25mmx25mm) 4. 9mm WBP PLY 5. Timber frame (pressure treated 2x4) on 400mm centres - gaps packed with rockwool 6...

OK, the start of my winter project. I'm building a playhouse for my 2yo & 4yo, which will be an 2.5mx2.5m shed with a raised platform inside. I know, starting an outdoor project in winter makes no sense but this has to be completed by March - i hope to get it closed in within a fortnight of...

I have recently laid a floating solid wood floor in my hallway and dining room, both these rooms have doorways leading onto the lounge. Currently the lounge has no floor covering, its just stripped back to the concrete floor. Obviously there is a fairly big difference in levels between the...

the concrete floor seemed quite level as I was laying the wood floor, as there had been no problems with the previous floor I took it for granted that there would be no issues with the floor level so didn't really check :-/....my bad I know! I only completed the job on Friday, not been back...

I bought solid oak flooring from wickes to replace the 8yr old laminate in our dining room, which although looking a little tired had actually lasted quite well. Following the instructions on the back of the pack I laid down a DPM onto the concrete floor, followed by the wickes fibreboard...

OK, thats settled then, a little outlay now could save a big headache later so I guess I'll go for the wire mesh. TravisPerkins have a depot locally so getting hold of some should not be a problem. However back to how do you lay it to ensure it is at the correct depth in the slab? I would...

Does anyone else share the above opinion? To be honest I was never planning on adding steel reinforcement until it was advised above but I kinda agree with the above sentiment that it would be overkill for a small kitchen - however I am a telecoms engineer not a builder so my 'hunches' don't...

OK, heres my final (hopefully!) plan: 75mm Concrete Screed, containing: Electric floor heating cable (have yet to select this item) Wire mesh (to lift cable away from insulation) using remaining A142 75mm Jabfloor 70 150mm slab A142 reinforcement with 40mm...

Thanks for the reply, a few questions about the above (apologies in advance if they are dumb questions!). Whats "150dp C30 concrete slab with A142 mesh with 40m top cover"? How thick should this slab be? If using the Jabfloor 70 insulation what would be the best thickness? I assume too...

The kitchen is 2.8mx2.4m and all that will be going on top is the kitchen units!

I am in the process of replacing my kitchen floor with a new concrete floor (The old one was only a few inches thick with no insulation, DPM or hardcore beneath). I intend to dig down the required depth and then fill as follows (top to bottom): 1. Concrete Screed, containing...