Recent content by goosander

I'm in the final stages of changing over from an open vent system (ancient Ideal Mexico Slimline boiler) to a modern sealed system using a Worcester Greenstar 36CDi Compact combi. I was originally intending on reusing the Honeywell CM927 programmable thermostat (the only modern bit of my old...

OK thanks Dan (and FP).

Partly the efficiency of HW on demand and partly being able to get rid of the noisy pump, also getting rid of HW tank would free up storage space. Would have though a decent combi would be OK for a single shower but as I said, I've never used one - surely better than an electric shower though?

The 23.7 is the CH output, HW output is nearer to 30 Kw (hence the 30 model designation)

Now that nearly all boilers can modulate their output over a wide range, is there any good reason not to go for a larger output model (within reason) in order to get better a better hot water flow rate? I am planning on replacing my old Ideal Mexico Slimline heat only boiler with a combi in the...

Noted. I'll try and ascertain what they used to fill in the hole - assumed it would be brick but maybe not...

The where is dictated by the location of the original boiler (not the current one) - I want to put the new boiler back to the original location, partly because its a sensible location and partly because the flue hole can then be made through the previously filled section of wall rather than...

Thanks - footprints I'll go with your suggestion. If it was on the ground floor, I'd drill from the outside but no way I want to be up a ladder with a big core drill!

I'm looking to get a new boiler fitted in a different location to the current boiler, so will need to drill a hole for the flue. A gas safe registered mate will be doing the install but I'll be doing some of the prep including drilling the flue hole. The property is a 2nd floor flat with...

Well thanks for the links, but oh dear me. Apparently I should now have a heat detector in kitchen, smoke alarm in living room plus further smoke alarms in the upstairs & down stairs halls, all mains powered & interlinked. This strikes me as total overkill - why would you need a smoke alarm in...

Yes, a heat detector makes sense for the kitchen but as far as I'm aware there is no actual requirement for a smoke detector in the kitchen - only one per floor. Currently the smoke detector is in the hall partly to reduce unwanted alarms and partly because it is the best location to ensure it...

Was aware of the requirement for mains powered interlinked smoke detectors, and CO detector (think battery powered OK) but didn't realise there was a requirement for heat detectors. Not saying you are wrong, but could you point out where this is mandated? Thanks.

Thanks John, your reply is pretty much what I was hoping for! Just need to find out how much an EICR actually costs, I'm guessing they are quite time consuming, so not cheap... If I could get a new CU thrown in for not too much more though, at least it would feel like I'm getting some tangible...

I may need to relocate for a while and am considering renting out my flat and have just begun researching my obligations as a potential landlord and it seems that you now need to have interlinked main powered smoke alarms and an EICR for the property and PAT test appliances etc (property is in...

I know the electrics are different and I'm OK with that side of things, just the plumbing causing problems - thanks.