Recent content by greenfingersjim

I think that’s the thermal overload switch. It sits in a shallow round recess in the motor body to respond to high temp. I’m going to check it next time it fails. I’m now fairly certain the motor is overheating due to friction or wiring issues, or maybe the overload protection switch is faulty.

Thanks. I’ll check the resistance next time it switches off. Do you have any idea what temp these are designed to switch off at if functioning correctly?

I assume the round black component is the thermal overload

The fan turns freely when it suddenly stops. The electric doesn’t trip, although it did an earlier in the year before this issue arose. I think I’ll get the motor off and have a look and take it to be tested if nothing obvious.

No clamp meter. I haven’t looked inside the motor, but doubt there’s anthong inside as it’s sealed. It is noisier than I remember in the past which makes me wonder about bearings. I have checked the fan and the shaft isn’t loose at all. I had considered the windings. I’m not certain, but I don’t...

I’ll probably get someone to look at it but just thought I’d research a little. The current models do have heat protection. This one’s at least 20 years old. It does get hot to touch but don’t know how this compares to before problem started. I wonder if the bearings are dry.

This one

I have a dab centrifugal pump for pumping water from a holding tank to water plants on a nursery. It’s quite old but generally works well. Recently it’s been cutting out after an hour or so of use. The supply is fine and the motor spins freely when this happens so not seized. 10 mins later it...

Yes it does. I’ll check at local plumbers merchant tomorrow, but probably next week before I get it. I’ll update the thread then.

Thanks. No voltage at all. When running it records 240v or so, but nothing when I check after it switches off. I’ll try a new one. I did wonder about the fan, but there’s plenty of clearance around it and no noise when it is spinning.

My multimeter doesn’t have a capacitance function, but am I right in thinking the capacitor should be charged and register voltage when the boiler is idle?

I thought I’d start with the capacitor, but not sure manually rotating the fan would work like this if the capacitor is faulty.

Also could a fuel pump issue stop the motor/ fan from spinning on start up. I assume it would it still spin regardless of pump issues.

this is what happens. Any ideas most likely cause. Burner locks out. I press the reset and can hear the fan is not spinning. I remove the burner and fan cover to check motor isn’t seized. It’s not and I spin the fan by hand put back together press reset and it fires and heats up correctly. When...

It’s the manual limit thermostat. Burnt out.