Recent content by HarperLewis

Hi, This may be a stupid question, in this setup, what should the manifold pump be connected too?. Should it be the connected the VR71 (for example using the diagram below, to R1 for Circuit 1), or should it be connected to the UH8-RF v2 instead? My setup is something like the following but...

Is there a good way to avoid this? (although given we have cats, they might find the living conditions unfavourably) I'm guessing this would only be the case if we actually put a floor in rather then just leaving the slabs exposed (there currently spaced at 50mm spacing with gravel in between)...

You mean something like https://mytradeproducts.com/products/broadfix-horseshoe-load-bearing-shims-70x70mm-select-size-2mm-to-20mm and use UC3 on top?

I building a shed 3m x 1.4m for general garden storage (on slabs). I'm trying to work out how exactly the base should be. As I understand there is UC3 timber (not for ground contact) and UC4 (which is suitable for ground contact). I'm trying to work out what is the correct option: 1. Use UC4...

Yea pretty impressed with it so far, the only thing is my partner finds the switch a bit clunky (https://www.varilight.co.uk/configurator/product.php?code=G102SRW) compared to a normal Rocker switch, but I'm going to experiment with a few different manufactures to see if there is something she's...

Thanks for advice on this, replaced the wire and added a smart switch (went for the Shelly Dimmer 2 in the end) and everything works perfectly

It's just me been (over) cautious, prob not going to be using the Neutral for a couple of months, plus easy to access both ends, tbh there isn't really a good reason :)

Cheers folks :)

Hi, I just want to double check everything I'm planning on doing is correct before I go ahead. I want to install a smart switch that requires a neutral at the switch (my circuit is looped in at the rose rather than the switch). My plan is to replace the 2-Core and earth with equivalent 3-core...

Great sounds good. One last question for the nails, it was suggested to me (given that I didn't want to bring down the lathe and plaster ceiling below) to use a finishing nail gun with L shaped nails? Does this sound about right to you? (I assuming given the depth of the subfloor and floorboards...

I think we have our wires crossed here :) The intention is to lay 22mm Chipboard down and then lay the current pine floorboard back on top of the chipboard subfloor (they're about ~15mm thick) giving an overall floor thickness of ~37mm. Once this is done I want to sand the pine floorboard again...

Does the strength of the board matter that much with a 22mm subfloor underneath as it's not longer having to span anything? I guess the reason I was thinking of sinking them deeper was to have the possibility of sanding the floor a couple more times over the years. My assumption was with the...

Hey, thanks for the detailed reply. With regards to filling the screw heads, my plan was to use a small bit of dowel sawn to the height of the board, this way if I really need to bring it up, I could just drill the dowel. When you mention that edge to edge joints can creak unless glued, I was...

I’m planning on ripping up the victorian non TnG pine floorboards on the 1st floor (they have been sanded and finished by the previous owners but are in need of some love), install a subfloor (22mm Chipboard), (run cables, new CH piping, install sound proofing), reinstall the floor (and...

I'm currently renovating a my new home which is a late Victorian house, and I've taken plaster off a couple of stud walls in my office. With in the room, there are currently (The house was rewired around 7 years ago). 1 Run of 1.5mm T + E for the lighting Circuit (running from floor to ceiling...