Recent content by HowlinWilf

Use white bathroom sealant. Squirt a 3-4 mm bead into corner where sink top meets underside of worktop, and smooth with a wet finger.

Squowse is right - 'hardwood' is a generic term meaning that it could be whatever stocks of hardwood they had left and is not of 'furniture grade' appearance (only suitable for painting). But it would still be a perfectly good robust heavy door (as long as they've made it properly). And...

I wouldn't use nails at all. I would drill for screws, countersinking the hole so the screws sit below the surface, and then fill and sand - and then paint. Much tougher and more permanent. And, yeah, I would add reinforcement below the MDF to support the glass - just glue and screw more...

If the ratchet doesn't work, and you don't want to use filler of any sort, then the only option left is to shape a patch using a piece/pieces of similar bamboo floor.

Oak IS a hardwood, Sunkat92. As for which hardwood you opt for, which wood do you like the look of best? Hardwood doors will be more durable and less prone to movement than a softwood door (pine) Mortice & tenon joints are much stronger than dowelled joints - does anyone sell a hardwood door...

If you're going to rout a 3/8" rebate to hold the glass, I suggest you use 22 or 25 mm MDF - you may need the extra thickness for the weight of the glass. As for painting it, just use ordinary primer (2 coats) and then a decent quality oil-based paint - which is how I paint MDF plinths for...

Your cheapest option for wide panels with wood-effect is melamine faced chipboard (MFC) - you can get it in oak, beech or maple-effect, and places like Wickes sell it in different sized panels and in different thicknesses. Alternatively, you could consider using real wood veneer on MDF or ply...

Hand sand it with a sanding block and some 60 grit paper.

It will probably be fine. But I would bear the following in mind With cheap saws, you get cheap blades which do not cut particularly brilliantly - depends on how much 'break-out' you're prepared to accept. Cheap castings - the fences either side of the blade may not be in line with each...

I think the only way you'd get hold of an actual 'cutting list' is if the list was for a project that corresponded exactly with what you wanted. Otherwise you would have to analyse the list to work out exactly how it differed from what you wanted, and then change the list accordingly...

I reckon that the reason the purlin wasn't replaced at the time it cracked was because of the cost and the upheaval/collateral damage involved in doing so. Which of course, will apply to you if you decide to replace it. I also reckon that the steel casing is probably adequate. From your...

I'm a cabinet maker rather than a chippy, but my gut says clad first. All of the rest of it is finishing. Cladding is fundamental to the integrity of the building.

If these brackets fit in with the aesthetics of what you have in mind, then I don't think you should give up on them just yet. You may not need very many of them - 1 pair can support up to 150kg. With a 2.5m long shelf, you would need a minimum of one at each end and one more in the middle...

To bmx: tung oil is yer best bet. Matt finish, waterproof, heat resistant, resistant to stains and solvents (when fully dry) and non toxic. Colouring is similar to Danish. Your table may have gone yellow and shiny from over-oiling it! :lol:

Don't mention it. Happy to be of assistance! :lol: These brackets come in many different sizes, and you can buy them yourself from Mykitchenbits.com. Easy peasy!! So you've abandoned the IKEA cabinet then?