oiling a solid oak kitchen worktop

Ive just put Danish oil on my Oak worktop. It took 3 days to dry. But i think thats because there is not central heating on in the house and its freezing cold 24 hours a day in there.

I cant afford to heat the house after buying the oak worktop..... :(
 
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i have been using danish oil on my oak dining table and its now gone abit yellow and shinny, ithink iam going to buff it off with some scotchbrite and re oil it. will tung oil leave it matt and not colour it like the danish oil is?

also iam doing a beech worktop in the coming month and want an oil that gives the best protection but a matt finish, whats the best?
 
To bmx: tung oil is yer best bet. Matt finish, waterproof, heat resistant, resistant to stains and solvents (when fully dry) and non toxic.

Colouring is similar to Danish.

Your table may have gone yellow and shiny from over-oiling it! :LOL:
 
I would recommend either Liberon Tung or Finsihing oil. The Tung will give a matt finish and the finishing oil will give it a shine. The Tung will dry alot slower so bear that in mind :)

Have to say I use the finishing oil alot more, pleanty of thin layers. Usually after 3 or so I will always sand it back a little bit, just to keep it really smooth.
 
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Just a note with regards to oak worktops, danish oil in my view is the best, may take time to apply but certainly does the job.
Also oak worktops need not be expensive I just bought 2x3m solid oak 38mm for £450, almost what B&Q wanted to charge for laminate, no comparison...go for wood, and shop around!
:eek:
 
You guys seem to advocate the traditional finish. Just had an oak table sprayed with lacquer. Just something that was botched together from waste oak wood flooring.
Not sure if its one pack or two pack.
The two pack I believe has exceptional resistance? (or is that banned?)
Anyway I suppose it's all down to personal taste.
 
I got my new IKEA kitchen a few months ago and I used the instructions on the IKEA oil tin to the letter as I treated the solid Oak worktops. Within a few weeks cracks and splits have appeared in the wood. Only where the sink is, in the areas that get wet a lot, but it is bloody annoying. It seems the IKEA Oil, and I suppose Danish Oil too, as the two are pretty much the same thing, is not properly water resistant. When the sufaces got wet it used to leave a water mark on the suface after it had dried. There must be some slight amount of wood stain in the IKEA Oil that washes off when it gets wet.

Today I sanded down the worktops and have used Ronseal Worktop Oil. It is entirely the same thing as Sadolin Worktop oil but has an added anti bacterial quality (silver) added. Immediately the wood repelled water, as it beaded on the surface, which it never did with the ikea oil. I have only applied one coat so far and will apply 2 or three more, but it already looks great. Its a clear Oil and leaves the wood with a slight sheen.

I will never use anything else again. I love my IKEA Kitchen though, just the Worktop Oil is rubbish.
 
I am about to place an order for 2 x 3M + 1 x 4M, I have been shown the finish that Tung oil gives and is too yellowy for my linking, some of you mentioned that Danish oil is more or less the same than Tung oil, my aim is to achieve a clear finish, water resistant, with similar colour to any piece of furniture you'll get from a furniture store.

Any suggestions
 
We have had our beech worktop, bought from Ikea, for about 5yrs. Once fitted it was sanded lightly and then treated with food grade, satin, varnish. We've done nothing to it since and it's fine. No stains, no water damage, no cracking. We're not 'gentle' in the kitchen either. The varnish bought up the colour and grain nicely. It could probably do with another sand and re-varnish, but it's not desperate for it so will wait until the summer.
 
Like the last post I opted to use a varnish. I used Ronseal Diamond Hard Floor Varnish on our oak floor three years ago and it has stood up well.

I was going to use the same product for the worktop and found that Ronseal now market it as Ronseal Diamond Hard Varnish. I went for a clear satin finish which is waterproof and very resistant to scratches etc.
 

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