To be honest I'm thinking of just going with the ERA guardian or the miGuard g5 and sticking with the foscam. I can just put the camera on a smart socket and turn it off while I am in there
I like that theory, the only issue we have is that the veritas is already all zoned out and it already has a couple of zones with two sensors on it
I'll look into maybe creating my own system though, it might be a better way to get what I want
The grade2 isn't a requirement really just a nice to have for peace of mind, I don't have an issue with getting an installer in but I agree with your reasoning so I'll drop that as a requirement.
Maybe I'll drop the camera requirement as well, I don't think I can find one to match my requirements
Hi all,
I have a single room in my home where I need to add some uprated security.
Currently using a foscam ip camera which is OK but I want a fully redundant and proper alarm system.
Requirements:
1- must call / sms at least three people using wifi(ideally but phone line ok) but must have a...
12v had been wired into a switched live and the system had clearly not been set up properly.
All now working hunky dory thanks to my friendly local alarm engineer
Ok so I had (literally) two minutes between screaming kids to confirm:
1- I can access it with the engineer code still
2- the PIR have no lights normally or when the walk test is activated.
I'll keep chipping away!
I have not, I was too scared of setting it off with a toddler and a baby in the house!
Nothing on the PIR that I can see, I'll have a more detailed investigation ASAP
Ok thank you, all the magnets do appear to be well aligned and almost touching.
Irritatingly zone 7 is a PIR sensor, but I am guessing the others are at fault anyway as they're all lit but 1
Sorry for another 'I've inherited an alarm' thread.
I've read various veritas threads but I don't seem to be able to find an answer on how to resolve this, other than finding a local engineer.
We've got the user code, I haven't tried an engineer code.
It should all be working but this is the...
I appreciate that, I was merely looking for some advice on the possible scenarios and a clarification on my assumptions, I am not expecting anyone to diagnose the exact fault based on words on a screen.
Thank you for the advice so far and I am glad to have some heating, I will pick this up...
Yep I figured that one, but I will let the HE do that correctly.
Just wasn't sure if that was too much loss to be a dripping PRV, but I guess the measuring jug test tonight will tell me!
So this morning the boiler was back down to 'min' but not totally empty
So I am assuming (and please correct me if I am wrong) that either:
1- the air is being forced out of the leaky EV valve and therefore the water side is expanding and thus the pressure drop
2- all of the air was...
hahaha!
yes, and very happy with Tony as we seem to have heating again.
Boiler seems to be operating nicely between 1 and 2 bar, will check in the morning though.
Will get the HE to check it all over and change the schrader valve out on the EV :)