Recent content by Itsatoughjob

Turns out that my old lock had the Europa Fast-lock feature, but I can find very little info about this and nowhere seems to stock such an item. No idea why as is much more convenient, being able to leave the house and lock it just by lifting the handle.

I get what you're saying, but even on the new one I can come and go without a key. The door is only locked off I lift the handle AND then turn the key. Before I could fully lock the door just by lifting the handle. It's now more likely that someone will forget the key turn and leave the door...

The gearbox on my uPVC door failed, was a "GU case 35 old" style. I fitted a replacement and it works ok.... However the old one could be fully locked from either side simply by lifting the handle. If you didn't lift the handle the door could be opened from either side. Unlocking required a key...

Hmm good question. I don't have any spares, to determine exactly what they are (i.e. a whole one to look at). I can say that they are plain concrete tiles, circa 1935 with an 'M' stamped on the back (which I interpreted to be 'Marley' but I might be totally wrong), held in place by 2 lug...

Sorry, yes, builder suggested I could reuse but of course I can spend more if I want to! So really it's me torn between the two and not wanting to make a bad decision :)

I've been quoted for a loft conversion, 30s semi, hip to gable conversion. The price includes reusing the existing concrete tiles (plain Marley types I believe). Any duff ones can be swapped out with those saved by introducing a dormer. Question is, should I insist on new tiles? I like the idea...

It appears that the fault lies with the gas valve mode switch on the back of the pcb. Just moving this slightly with a screwdriver causes the boiler to stop firing. Now to work out whether the switch can be desoldered and replaced, rather than getting a new board.

Probably bad form to answer my own question, but having looked at http://www.gasboilerforums.com/thermistoreadingsR-W.html It appears that the sensor is ntc, and a 6.2k measurement is well in excess of 20c (like I said, the pipes are still warm) so its unlikely that its giving a false frost...

Sorry, I was going by the likely outcome based on the faulting diagram in the manual. I will definitely be pursuing all alternatives before committing any dosh, hopefully someone will have seen this problem before!

No external frost stat. The boiler has frost protection which I understand cuts in below 5c (based on CH sensor). i measured the resistance of this sensor, it is currently about 6.2kilo ohms. I don't know if this is about right, the pipes are still warmish since I shut it all off. The manual...

So this has happened a few times now. My 24cdi decides to fire up in ch mode, despite the time clock being off and the stat being wound right down. The boiler fires continually with no control over water temperature, it's like it is stuck in commisioning mode. All the rads get extremely hot and...