Recent content by Jack07

I'm looking to cap over my existing pvc fascias as they're looking tired and are the old rounded moulding. I am changing the colour to match other parts of the house. They are in good nick and so I was hoping to cap straight over the existing pvc. There's no soffit and the boards sit straight...

My wife wants ceramic tiles in our hallway which is quite large (22sqm). I've said under no circumstances am I tiling straight on to our concrete floor due to the the heat loss and chill on the tiles. I looked at underfloor heating mats but I won't be able to run it to the fuseboard and don't...

I believe its concrete with a dpm as its an extension added on to the original house maybe in the 70s/80s?

I currently have a lounge with LVT which I am replacing. Unfortunately, it has a slope across part of the length. As I assume I can't lay LVT over an existing floor covering, I need to rip up the old and somehow smooth it ready for glue down LVT (I don't really want LVT click). I can't level...

My BCO has asked for 150mm celotex insulation in my vaulted porch roof with 50mm air gap. Would there be any benefit in tacking up foil insulation before the plasterboard? I know the foil will be compressed but is there any need for me to be concerned over potential bridging of cold through...

Building Control haven't been around yet. Need to set the rafters up first. Will ask when he comes around but wondered if people put them in. My roofer friend onmy said if I did then avoid fitting them flush with the tip of the rafter as it can trap the fabric and stop any water running down if...

My BO told me that the timbers need to be 175mm structurally BUT as the regs require 150mm insulation plus 50mm air gap I need 200mm joists. I was only putting in noggins for twisting. If I can get away without then even better. I will probably overboard with insulated plasterboard also for extra

Hi, Do I need to fit noggins between the rafters in my mono-pitched roof with a vaulted ceiling? The span is 3m and I will be using 200mm joists to take the required 150mm insulation. I was thinking noggins would get in the way of the insulation? Thanks J

Cheers, as in the first waste from the stack?

Thanks for the responses. I've double checked and can't see any blockages in the waste pipe. I'm going to start with replacing wastes for anti-syphon. I am able to access the 1½ waste pipe connecting the bathroom suite. So, im wondering if I can connect an inline air admittance valve along the...

My bathroom currently feeds into an internal, unvented stack. We've been noticing lately that we're getting a waste odour and I assume that when the toilet, shower or bath discharges waste water it's pulling the water from the other traps? I hear gurgling from the traps when using the bathroom...

Many thanks for info. It's a mono-pitch roof. Building inspector stated structurally it only needs 5" rafters but it needs to accommodate 150mm insulation and 50mm air gap, hence why the 200mm joist is required. Seems like it will be plenty of strength but will check with BCO beforehand...

As written above, can pipes be run through rafters? I am fitting a pitched roof with a vaulted ceiling. I need to run pipes through to enable radiators to be fitted. I can't dig the floor and it's not looking likely to be able to box them in as there is a front door underneath. The rafters...

Many thanks for all the responses. The loft has 2x100mm which was already installed before I bought the house. Both layers look good. I have been up there running a new bathroom extract and was thinking of ways to limit heat loss. I'm going to buy some extra top-up rolls and lay over this...

Hi, I have insulted the loft but being an old stone house it can be very cold. The extra loft roll doesn't seem to make a difference. I know it may seem a bit counter productive insulating both but I'm looking at ways to save as much energy as possible. If the attic space is warmer surely it...