Recent content by jake7

Well its difficult to send a pint over the internet so I thought a thumbs up was the next best thing... :D

Thought I'd give it a go before I hit the sack. Installed easy enough, most difficult part was drilling the extra hole for the bigger back plate. Saying that your guidance was invaluable, so a big thumbs up and thanks again.

Another quick question. My current wiring has a black wires from both the right L (live) and left N (neutral) connections, do they need connected in the same confiquration i.e. APT----------------------------------------------HONEYWELL Black / Brown (L)...

I will give it a go tomo, thanks for your quick reply. I'll post back with the good news hopefully.

Hope someone can help me on wiring a new electronic timer. I have an old APT push pin timer and I am replacing it with a Honeywell ST9100C Timer. I've attached images of the old wiring setup and wiring diagram for the Honeywell. Hope I've posted this in the correct forum or should this be...

APT to Honeywell wiring

With both appliances running from main cooker switch are you sure I couldn't locate FCU behind single oven. It would make connection to oven simpler. The oven could easly be isolated from supply from main switch so not sure why FCU would need to be accessible also. Thanks again for the advice

Thanks for the help. Both appliances on the one Cooker Switch makes sense. Another question: Is it neccasary to use 6mm t&e to the single oven or can I use 2.5mm. Also should I use a 45amp rated Cooker Switch? The breaker is 30amp.

At the moment I have a Ceramic Hob connected to a Cooker Switch which in turn is connected to a 30amp breaker. On inspecting the wiring for my existing single oven I noticed it is feed from the connection plate also powering the hob. Is this setup correct? I'm sure the single oven is rated at...