Recent content by James_H

Thanks for adding that, I appreciate it. The joists and noggins are already in, but there is still time to dig for more posts between them.

That is my concern. Given the joists are in but posts could still be added, what post spacing would you recommend?

We are having a standalone garden deck built 4.5m long, 3.5m wide. The frame has been constructed as follows. There are 100x100 posts. Joists from treated C24 '4x2' and 450mm spacing with noggins are screwed together and to the posts (no bearers). I have drawn it as below. I thought that...

Thanks for the responses. I will try something hidden under the profile, probably some gripper first.

I have a house built in 2013, where the floor construction is beam and block, approx 120mm PIR insulation and then about 60mm screed on top. In preparation for replacing the hall carpet with engineered wood, I have cleared the old carpet and underlay away and uncovered two possible issues...

I will be fitting an engineered wood floor soon. I am keeping some adjacent rooms carpeted and will buy the wood-to-carpet threshold pieces made from solid wood that have the T-ish shapes but are chosen for the relative wood and carpet height, which will allow for the wood expansion and hide...

Hello, I currently just have radiators for heating with an S Plan Plus setup (separate zone valves for downstairs and upstairs, plus valve for hot water cylinder, plus summer circuit for towel rads receiving heat whenever one of the other three call for heat). Boiler is a Potterton Promax SL...

I'm planning on fitting an engineered wood floor to my living room and hall but have some questions. The living room is 3.1m wide (and 7.3m long) and the 180-190mm wide boards look like they would suit it well. However, the hall has varying width, between 0.85m and 1.22m wide and 4.9m long...

Ok, I need to clarify a few things here > a job that does not need doing? In your opinion. Not everything needs to be done to the bare minimum, lowest common denominator >why dont you just get an elecy element fitted for them summer days.sounds lest costly then getting it zoned. I...

My existing system is an S-Plan. While having a lot of CH pipework changed, I am having the bathroom radiator removed from the heating zone and onto its own summer circuit, essentially a third zone but without a valve. Then, whenever either the heating or hot water are being pumped, the rad...

I have a 1970s house with a fairly normal S-Plan setup. There are three bedroom radiators and one bathroom upstairs, fed from the floor void. Downstairs are another four rads (lounge x2, hall, kitchen) with pipes buried in the solid floor. Heating control is by a programmable room stat in the...

I have a CM67 that makes a loud 'tock' as the relay switches on or off. The similar unit at the Premier TravelInn I recently stayed at made a similar noise on switching but maybe a bit less echo. Does the CM67RF or newer CM927 equivalent have silent operation at the user control since the...

Not the most exciting topic or one spending much time debating over when it only costs in the region of £10 - £15, but any recommendations for a decent quality kit? The one in B&Q doesn't have an anti-backdraft flap and the Screwfix one is grey (I would like one in white). It will be on a...

Only after posting I realised I had the wrong spelling of fluorescent in one of my searches! And I somehow missed that other recent similar problem. Due to space constraints there was no room for a split load board, so one CU covers the non-RCD circuits and another CU the RCD-required...

Sorry for yet another 'my RCD has tripped' thread, but I have not found this through searching. Since having by electrics upgraded a couple of months ago to include RCD protection on the sockets side, I have had a couple of rogue trips. It could have been the dishwasher (new) or tumble drier...