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  • Hi James

    I think you posted the reply to your own page. My e-mail address is [email protected]

    On the new ( old ) cottage I will be using 12 volts to wall switches and relays in a control box to switch the 230 volt to the lamps. This allows a very small cable to be run down under wall paper without having to damage what appears to be the original wattle and daud internal walls.

    Adds to the expense but actually makes the wiring a lot easier and the control box will be intelligent and functions like two switching can be achieved without complex wiring between the switches. Timers can be easily programmed. Also delayed OFF for when I go out.

    The hardware will be my own design.

    You are right. a couple of "high priests" do monopolise the forum. In a way I see why they get so upset as some of the frequently repeated questions posted are from ignorant people who should never be allowed to touch a screw driver let alone work on electrics. That said the high priests do not always use the right tactics to keep those ignorant people safe.

    Best regards

    Hi James

    We built a Walter Segal house in 1980 a total self build by my wife and I.

    Conventional cable routes to the current 1980 regulations would have compromised the structure ( infill walls of 50 mm Thermocoust wood wall and 12 mm plaster board ) so all cabling and sockets had to be on the vertical battens if the regulations were to be followed.

    Although Part P of the Building Regs had not been thought of in 1980 the building inspectors still took an interest in electrical safety and were agreeable that an exemption could be made.

    I have just started renovation of a 490 year old thatched Grade II listed cottage as my future batchelor home. ( now divorced ) A total rewire is needed and provided it is a safe install I do not have to follow BS7671 to the letter if it conflicts with the requirements of protecting the original fabric of the building.


    Bernard Green
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