Recent content by jmac88

i replaced the ABV with a similar one, quick swap and when I saw the inside of the old one the part that moves on the screw had come off and was completely loose and hence it was always open. When replaced, all the rads came on fine when I cranked up the setting to around 4 from 2. Top is 6.5

I'm going to connect them first in series and use one manifold port pair and try it out. If it doesn't work well, then I'll separate the loops. It's not really any wasted work as only need to remove the connection between the rads before adding in the two extra lengths. It would be easier in...

Rads are: Room Radiator Type H W Area BTU/m BTU Sitting Room Big P+ 600 1300 0.78 8,305 6,478 Sitting Room Small K1 600 1300 0.78 5,867 4,576 First rad is 4m from manifold and second is 4m from there (taking into account pipe routing) Need straight connectors. I know I can get them...

I already have the manifold with 2 loops installed and working well. so not sure what you mean by standard brass manifolds. Mine are ufh ones with shutoff valves, temp gauges and pressure gauge. Also flow control on each circuit and will add actuators. so question is which connector is best for...

Won't go into the reasons and much is personal preference but after a full basement dig out which meant all my G/F radiator pipework had to be ripped out, I have decided to reconnect them using an UFH manifold, with one loop for each room. Had enough Pex-Al HDPE pipe for 2 rooms but have one...

Apparently the control system that is shipped with the manifold - according to Grundfos!! But as said, I haven't got one yet!! Just leaving the pump on over the winter with the UHF on as the control system I want is quite expensive and need to hold off buying for a bit - and need to check it can...

PS Very helpful and I'm probably still a bit off track. I just like to know and understand all my components and not just have what came with the system!!

mine is not actually identical to either of these but more like the top one. I finally managed to speak to Grundfos!! Apparently all the UPM versions are what they call OEM and most are not programmable without the digital cable attached and are designed to be controlled fully by the heating...

I called up Worcester Bosch Tech Support and they said it does need a bypass valve I have added TVR to all rads & Honeywell Evohome smart heating. Evohome will control demand for heat if all TVRs shut off but they advised for general cooling and if a valve closes and boiler demand for heat is...

I installed this as part of an UFH Manifold circulator. Can press the button to change the speed between three speeds. But I see now that I can change the way it works and it should be in Constant Pressure mode for UFH and it isn't. After reading the manuals, it says to press the button for 2s...

I also have no idea if the ABV is a Honeywell one or a cheaper version that looks identical. There are no markings on it to say Honeywell. Thus is If i replace ti, should I replace with the expensive Honeywell - which the original may have been and has broken or was always faulty - or save GBP40...

Boiler is Combi but I called Worcester Bosch and they confirmed that I should have an ABV with TVRs (its a 20 year old boiler 35CDi) and the ABV should be on a minimum circulatory loop of 2m, ie 1m from boiler giving a 2m round trip. SO its is situated correctly and is recommended. But... Its...

I think my one is Kaput. We added a radiator a bit far out and it never warmed up. But I also noticed that the boiler would go on and off regularly even when the radiator return pipe was still cold. But the flow from the ABP was always hot and the boiler sensing the hot water coming in would...