Recent content by jonjay3012

@Buck. I know that the bathroom taps and toilet are fed from the cold water tank (although I didn't before this happened). Replumbing might be an option but not a priotity at the minute. We have a mixer tap in the kitchen and on the bathroom sink. I've also got a mixer to go on the bath, but...

Well we've had the plumber round and he's adjusted the pump speed which has stopped the vent pipe discharging water. He is pretty sure the problem with the F&E overfilling is a blockage in the system. apparantly the return from the hot water cylinder is not bringing even luke warm water back and...

If this was an issue, would we not have noticed discolouration to the hot water before? At the moment there is no discolouration to the hot water, only the cold, but I'm assuming that this is because the hot tank is still virtually full as it hasn't been used since the F&E started overflowing.

Well, last night before going to bed I manually emptied a bucket and a half of water from the F&E tank to drop the level well below the overflow and to the point where the ball valve shuts off, just to stop water getting in to the cold tank. This morning after seeing DP's advice, I bled off...

Thanks for the quick reply There was definitely rads rusting from inside, but not sure it's necessarily resulted from the pumping over. The only reason I say this is that we have never had an issue with brown tap water before, and we definitely would have done if the F&E had been...

Hi, having a bit of a disaster at the minute. Just from installing a new kitchen every little job seems to be going wrong. The latest is the heating system. During the kitchen change we decided to take the old rad out, and as doing that decided to change 2 other old rads that had been leaking...

Thanks for the quick responses. Will pick up the McAlpine kit on the way home from work. :D It is a work of art aint it. I was pleased to get it working with no leaks, a crash landing does seem a very apt analogy.

Hi, we've just installed a new kitchen, including new 1.5 bowl sink. The old sink was the same configuration but the wastes were in different positions, and also the new sink has a combined waste/overflow that comes with it. As a result the old plumbing doesn't fit. Just to get the sink...

Absolutely fair enough. One thing I do know about electricity is that it's not something to get wrong :D

Thanks so much for all the replies. It's really appreciated. I had been leaning toward the double socket, but now thinking about it space may well be an issue. And I don't really want to be cutting in to units as they've only just gone in and been put in very tidily. Will have a look at...

Excellent. Ta. So, one last question then, although I think I know the answer. Would I be better off putting a double plug socket in and putting plugs on the appliances, or putting 2 13amp fused spurs. I'm thinking the plug option would be far easier, assuming this could be surface mounted...

Sorry EFL, didn't notice what? That you have to be registered to plaug in the hob? Seems a strange one if it correct that you would be able to DIY the oven but not the hob, when they seem to be identical jobs.

Is that right, just to connect the ignition on a gas hob, but you don't for the oven? The gas work has already been done, it's just a case of conecting up the electrics.

Sorry about the bad link The user handbook on this page has the same wiring instructions as those for my hob http://www.myspareparts.co.uk/cata/Cata-GHFF60SS2-4-Burner-Stainless-Steel-Gas-Hob And this one for the oven...

Thanks for the quick reply. The cooker outlet (assuming you mean the above counter cooker red switch) is wired back to the main fuse box with it's own circuit breaker. The oven and hob both come with cabling attached, but neither had a plug fitted. This is the manual for the oven...