Recent content by Kaymo

Ok, thanks. I think I see what you mean now. In the end I couldn't actually find a leak at the joints. I had lined this section of the gutter in the past with flashband and went over it with bitumen paint. I know some people will no doubt be on here in a minute criticising the flashband but it...

I suppose it could, but I think the problem with lining it with anything ends up being that water always finds a way to get behind it.

One question I have that someone with experience of this might help with, is the capacity required for the new uPVC gutter. To try this out I am looking at floplast standard half round and he hi-cap half round. Advantage of the standard is that the depth is about 2cm less than the high cap and...

Good tip, but do you mean underneath the uVC gutter to angle it or to take out a dip in the existing gutter? If the latter its a very long section where its holding water, probably too long to be doing this. I agree, I kind of implied this in my last post although I said movement rather than...

Brilliant Harry. I never would thought of solvent weld and heat deformation. That's a potential game changer and actually resolves a few of my worries on the detailing. Overlapping and solvent welding the joints might actually help create a step that would help with directing flow in the...

I probably wasn't clear enough on this. I had originally considered a lining that was a close fit to the profile of the original gutter, but for all the issues you and Deluks have identified I already discounted this. My thoughts are that a standard uPVC half round, maybe high-cap if it would...

Why?

I appreciate the advice, but I have repaired in the past and I am aware of lots of different methods for repairing cast gutters and have tried a few different materials and methods. For me the fundamental problem is the design. There is always standing water in the gutter and when they leak...

Recent pic with Evercryl applied in one of the sections that is leaking From below

In theory yes, but even with all going to plan I would need a very long dry spell to do this. In practice there is a good chance the gutter would disintegrate if I tried to detach it from the mortar bed.

Short version is that I have an old cast iron gutter, and I am considering ‘lining’ it with uPVC guttering. Looking for a bit of a sounding board here, appreciate any comments. I could of course get someone out to replace it, but it would cost thousands and no guarantee of a long term...

I went at this afternoon. Pipes fitted but it was very difficult to see when heating the solder ring joints whether the solder had come out due to one end being in the hole in the brick wall, so just had to roughly judge the time and hope. First time applying the water one of the joints leaked...

Thanks. I have already ordered normal skirting, but I think there would be enough space between skirting and wall as the plaster doesn't go all the way down. How do you cut the pipe that far into the wall to allow the angle to added without protruding beyond the plaster? Presume I would need...

Straight coupling? I must be misunderstanding this, a straight coupling would bring the pipes towards the middle of the room, surely it would need to be an angled coupling.

Hi all, As per the pic below, I moved this radiator a few years ago from the position where the pipes come through the wall, to nearer the door, so I could put an old piano here. I just used a couple of 90 deg compression fittings and ran the pipes behind the piano, but I am renovating the room...