• Looking for a smarter way to manage your heating this winter? We’ve been testing the new Aqara Radiator Thermostat W600 to see how quiet, accurate and easy it is to use around the home. Click here read our review.

Lining a cast iron gutter with uPVC gutter

The only issue I can foresee with solvent welding the gutter sections is how the long gutter will deal with the considerable expansion that uPVC experiences when subject to heat from sunlight. The joint systems for uPVC gutters are sealed with rubber seals which allow for expansion and contraction of the gutter. Solvent welding might split when subject to these forces.
 
If you cut a piece of slate, say 10 inch in length, by whatever will fit in the bottom of your guttering where it is holding water, you can lay in on a pebble/stone so that you can change the angle slightly, to stop it holding water, once you are happy with the angle you can acropol it in the fashion I mentioned earlier.
 
If you cut a piece of slate, say 10 inch in length, by whatever will fit in the bottom of your guttering where it is holding water, you can lay in on a pebble/stone so that you can change the angle slightly, to stop it holding water, once you are happy with the angle you can acropol it in the fashion I mentioned earlier.
Good tip, but do you mean underneath the uVC gutter to angle it or to take out a dip in the existing gutter? If the latter its a very long section where its holding water, probably too long to be doing this.

The only issue I can foresee with solvent welding the gutter sections is how the long gutter will deal with the considerable expansion that uPVC experiences when subject to heat from sunlight. The joint systems for uPVC gutters are sealed with rubber seals which allow for expansion and contraction of the gutter. Solvent welding might split when subject to these forces.
I agree, I kind of implied this in my last post although I said movement rather than expansion/contraction, but solvent weld would be a useful thing for the back pocket in case any issues arise, especially with the non standard angles etc on an old house!
 
The only issue I can foresee with solvent welding the gutter sections is how the long gutter will deal with the considerable expansion that uPVC experiences when subject to heat from sunlight. The joint systems for uPVC gutters are sealed with rubber seals which allow for expansion and contraction of the gutter. Solvent welding might split when subject to these forces.

If the gutter is loose in the cast-iron gutter, and only one end fixed, the unfixed end can take care of the expansion.
 
One question I have that someone with experience of this might help with, is the capacity required for the new uPVC gutter. To try this out I am looking at floplast standard half round and he hi-cap half round. Advantage of the standard is that the depth is about 2cm less than the high cap and that would give me a lot more scope for making it fit and raising in places it to get a runoff.

Only concern is whether the standard has enough flow capacity. The roof is about 6m from apex to gutter and there are two outlets, although there are also a lot of bends.
 
Good tip, but do you mean underneath the uVC gutter to angle it or to take out a dip in the existing gutter? If the latter its a very long
No, just the vulnerable bit, the joint, unless the cast has rusted through the sections of guttering, should be water-tight.
 
No, just the vulnerable bit, the joint, unless the cast has rusted through the sections of guttering, should be water-tight.
Ok, thanks. I think I see what you mean now.

In the end I couldn't actually find a leak at the joints. I had lined this section of the gutter in the past with flashband and went over it with bitumen paint. I know some people will no doubt be on here in a minute criticising the flashband but it has lasted years and still looks sound.

I had presumed there was maybe a small hole or crack I couldn't see but having gone over this section with Evercryl I don't think its leaking out from inside the gutter, I think its either backing up and getting under the flashband higher up on the sides and making its way out of the joint, or overflowing at the back of the gutter and seeping out where the joint is, making it look like the joint is leaking.

Anyway, having seen that the level was getting high I traced it back and found that the downpipe at the other side of the house was blocked at a bottleneck section where someone seems to have fitted a PVC pipe insert. I removed that and put a temporary section of PVC piper on the outside, to increase the internal diameter of the outflow. Its pouring tonight and I can't see any big drips from the section I thought was leaking, although its so wet everywhere its hard to be 100% sure.

So it might be fixed for the moment, but as I said at the start the problem is that if this thing leaks, or overflows, it leaks into the wall and you don't know its leaking until the wall is soaked. Its also the fact that the back/inside of the gutter is lower than the front/outside, so any backing up will overflow to the back not the front, so I am still considering the uPVC gutter placed inside. I've bought a couple of straight sections to check for fit and will take some pics and report back if I think it might work out.
 

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Back
Top