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Lining a cast iron gutter with uPVC gutter

The only issue I can foresee with solvent welding the gutter sections is how the long gutter will deal with the considerable expansion that uPVC experiences when subject to heat from sunlight. The joint systems for uPVC gutters are sealed with rubber seals which allow for expansion and contraction of the gutter. Solvent welding might split when subject to these forces.
 
If you cut a piece of slate, say 10 inch in length, by whatever will fit in the bottom of your guttering where it is holding water, you can lay in on a pebble/stone so that you can change the angle slightly, to stop it holding water, once you are happy with the angle you can acropol it in the fashion I mentioned earlier.
 
If you cut a piece of slate, say 10 inch in length, by whatever will fit in the bottom of your guttering where it is holding water, you can lay in on a pebble/stone so that you can change the angle slightly, to stop it holding water, once you are happy with the angle you can acropol it in the fashion I mentioned earlier.
Good tip, but do you mean underneath the uVC gutter to angle it or to take out a dip in the existing gutter? If the latter its a very long section where its holding water, probably too long to be doing this.

The only issue I can foresee with solvent welding the gutter sections is how the long gutter will deal with the considerable expansion that uPVC experiences when subject to heat from sunlight. The joint systems for uPVC gutters are sealed with rubber seals which allow for expansion and contraction of the gutter. Solvent welding might split when subject to these forces.
I agree, I kind of implied this in my last post although I said movement rather than expansion/contraction, but solvent weld would be a useful thing for the back pocket in case any issues arise, especially with the non standard angles etc on an old house!
 
The only issue I can foresee with solvent welding the gutter sections is how the long gutter will deal with the considerable expansion that uPVC experiences when subject to heat from sunlight. The joint systems for uPVC gutters are sealed with rubber seals which allow for expansion and contraction of the gutter. Solvent welding might split when subject to these forces.

If the gutter is loose in the cast-iron gutter, and only one end fixed, the unfixed end can take care of the expansion.
 
One question I have that someone with experience of this might help with, is the capacity required for the new uPVC gutter. To try this out I am looking at floplast standard half round and he hi-cap half round. Advantage of the standard is that the depth is about 2cm less than the high cap and that would give me a lot more scope for making it fit and raising in places it to get a runoff.

Only concern is whether the standard has enough flow capacity. The roof is about 6m from apex to gutter and there are two outlets, although there are also a lot of bends.
 
Good tip, but do you mean underneath the uVC gutter to angle it or to take out a dip in the existing gutter? If the latter its a very long
No, just the vulnerable bit, the joint, unless the cast has rusted through the sections of guttering, should be water-tight.
 

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