Recent content by Kingfisher3

thanks Wilhelm. i think the w is a gas oil nozzle but I'm not sure. there is no manual and no settings. There is no info on the net and the boiler is running on Kerosene. As for the Tiger Loop I should have said is there an easier way of priming other than an oil line priming pump.

I'm new to the world of the oil engineer and could do with a bit of advice. Got a service to do on a boiler with a .60x60w Danfoss nozzle fitted. What is the equivalent to a (w) is it a (es) or (eh) or is there no equivalent and if so where can I get one. Also first time had to work on...

with the cost of oil your better off replacing the whole line in one using 10mm copper. Replace the isolating valve by the tank. Fit a new filter by the tank a fire valve outside before the line comes into the house and a isolating valve before the flex into the burner oil pump. Last thing you...

Most boilers have a pump over run to continue circulating water after the end time. This allows the system to cool and prevent damage to the system. It's part of the PCB.

if you are 100% sure that the water is not venting through the PRV then you must have a leak. But the ultimate cause could still be the pressure vessel. I had this in a Pub recently took 2 months to find leak, cleaner kept mopping it up before I got there. wound pressure up to 3bar and waited...

Don't think so. Try this. Fill the system back up to 1.0bar. turn on the heating. See if the gauge starts to climb anywhere near 3.0bar. If it does look at the pipe outside, you will see water coming out. What happens is that water is expanding as it heats it can't push against the pressure...

It takes 2secs to check when your installing and at most half hour when the system has been charged. but it's easy to forget when your in a hurry. It cost nothing to do a check. How much is a new boiler?

ask your plumber if he checked the pressure on the EV before he refilled the system. Use a tyre pressure gauge. If that is Ok I would also be looking for a block as hotly says. The problem is in that area. Get a second opinion before you get another boiler. Ask about and find someone with a...

could be you still have air in the pump. But it could also be you have drawn water from the bottom of the tank. Disconnect the flex oil line and draw off some oil. Reconnect bleed and try again.

I guess it will cause the cable to over heat. I always play safe because I don't like electric. If it's a short run then change the cable for 10mm. Better safe than sorry. But that said it won't be you switch it on and it burst into flames.

sounds like your on Ford and Etal or Alnwick. Drawback of living in one of the nicest places in Britain.

Stop looking for a valve its a hexagon nut. If your not sure just slacken the braided pipe connection as it enters the pump until the oil comes through. Then retighten. It will probably fire up and be fine.

It will be on the oil pump at the side of the burner. Follow the oil line into the boiler. Inside the casing there should be a braided flexible hose. That will take you to the oil pump. Not worked on this model but depending on pump type depends on which to use as bleed. Look at manual it...

You have a false reading on the pressure vessel. Try again but make sure that the boiler gauge reads 0 when the pressure vessel reads 1.0bar. It will work.

When you were pumping up the system, if the boiler gauge went up at the same time, you were getting a false reading on the pressure vessel. Try again, but this time the boiler gauge must read 0 and the vessel 1.0 bar. If the boiler gauge goes up in pressure let more water out of the heating...