Recent content by Madrab

Couldn't see metal nuts in the bag for looking, just the plastic sleeves

If the F&E tank it becoming contaminated after all that cleaning then it must be getting fresh bacteria from somewhere. A lot of normal open vent F&E's, when they become contaminated, are typically from spores from the surrounding area but that's usually when they are open to the atmosphere and...

As suggested - you may get away with repairing that. Get a similar bend and then cut out the same section from the new bend at the same place, that way you should be able to closely match the profile of the pipe at that point so the fit is as tight as possible. Roughen up both mating surfaces...

never seen a pan fixing kit that uses screw bolts before. Are they just plastic nuts? 2 usual kinds of fixing kits these days, depending on the toilet. Side fixing with plastic L brackets or top down fixings with screws and caps for old school screw down through the pan. Side fixing --------...

If it's dry internally then it can only be the elbow on the pipework is leaking rainwater. What an exceeding strange setup though TBF. Why did they make the vent that size and not make it smaller and then just run it up internally. Is it just me or do they have those sockets upside down, or is...

These days, it depends but TBH the floor should never be out anything much at all. I'll always start with a level floor, even if the existing floor has to come up to sort it out, part of the job IMHO. A lot of the flat based stone resin trays I've laid have been using a polymer adhesive. I...

Nope - if you get it as part of the tanking kit then you use a primer on the wall and floor, then paint in a coating of the tanking membrane and whilst that's wet, stick the edging tape onto it spanning the floor up to the bottom of the tile undercut, then paint over it again with the membrane...

Sounds like a plan. As suggested, just ensure the cementitious board is thick enough to load bear properly. Sand and cement can be difficult to get the consistency right - if anything like that I'd use a flexible tile adhesive - A good quality flexible tile adhesive tends to be more workable...

Looking at the pics that may actually be some type of former but most of then are made from SMC/GRP materials. Older ones used to have a High density polystyrene type core material but they would normally have needed to be very well supported below. Yeah, I'd have all that up back to the...

I find that most people don't bother with using a short flush for 1's and long flush for 2's. They are a great idea for water saving if people could use them properly but most don't. So i wouldn't think it really matters. Yes, if the fill valve is ok then essentially just the syphon but if the...

Absolutely no need to apologise, things happen. This is a public DIY forum and most are here to help, the fact that you aren't on here every minute to check for answers to your post/question and reply to them within hours usually wouldn't be an issue worth chasing. If no reply within a week...

I think a 45deg bend on the grey with the 90mm adapter on it and then angle the frames soil pipe down @ ~ 45 deg and trim both pipes to fit. Given the rise on the grey pipe it may not be quite 45deg but should be close enough to fit by the looks of it.

That could simply be down to a flow issue, where were you getting the temps from? There isn't a flow sensor on these, rather a flow temp sensor so they don't monitor the actual flow, only the temps. If it was a circulation issue I would expect the boiler to reach max or set temp well before the...

Took the words right out of my mouth :) @Nelly B - as suggested - if any of the copper pipework attracts a magnet then that's an issue and can certainly cause circulation problems and create the problems you are experiencing, hence the open vent question. As a starting point I would run an...

sods law of course!!