Recent content by makp

am i right in thinking that only water based dye will allow you to try multiple coats of dye to get the correct colour depth?.....but as i've using white spirit to remove linseed oil stains then i cannot use a water based dye or stain...it should be a solvent or oil based dye or stain ?

thanks for the replies...though in order to remove these window boards it looks as if i will to to touch/remove them...from reading online white asbestos is low risk (comparitively) and using mask and gloves should be ok,....though im worried about drilling throught the boards.

Help, in trying to remove existing window boards in a 1970's ex local autority house, i've come across some white fibrous packing (see IMAG0003 in my album) that rests between the underside of the window boards and top of timber grounds.....i was having trouble removing the lost headed nail from...

help! - I'm getting confused with floorboard sizes....am trying to replace damaged PTG softwood floorboard and measuring then results in their o/a size being 115mm W, 21mm Th. (assuming that you include the tongue in the measurement) However looking at Wickes and some Timber merchants thet...

does anyone know of a neat trick of replacing (infilling) the gaps between softwoof T&G flooring (where the tongues have been cut away to lay pipes) - i've read about wood filler, resin and wedges, but is there anyway to match the recessed joints of the adjoining boards (apart from laying a new...

Thanks, that an interesting fallback option - will try to fill and if it looks bad will go with the cover strip (it looks like they used that trick on the ground floor)

thanks all for the suggestions, unfortuntely i don't have access to the underside.....i'll have a look if we have a mole grip in the shed and give that a go.

thanks for the idea...had n't thought of that...but just realised that i need to slide the board out horizintally as its slotted beneath the plaster of the window reveals

sorry i was talking about the whole area!

help!, have tried to remove old window boards but am only suceeding in knocking out adjacent plaster as i am struggling to remove the headless nails, have tried to use a cats paw by chiselling away at adjacent timber but the movement (to the timber gounds beneath is causing the plaster to crack...

thanks again for the advice - i also thought that stained varnish would be easier but was told that wih the mix of old & new timber using a dye first woudl give more contol of colour depth before sealing with varnish - i was told it was more difficult to control finsih with stained varnish ?

thanks for the info on the sander and spirit. think i need to do some more research on polyurthane varnishes.......i read on another post its better (and cheaper) to use a separate wood dye then clear varnish rather than the more expensive all in one stain varnish (i.e ronseal / sadolin /...

having ripped up 30 year old carpets on the first floor we are thinking of coating the plain T&G softwood floorboards with a 'dark oak' (ronseal type) satin polyurethane varnish. As the board are quite old some of the boards will need to be replaced but most are okay if not a little stained...

thanks for the responses - have to confess was worried about the mismatch using flexible filler - unfortunately hiring a plasterer is out of the question (for budget reasons) we've got some powder filler we can use for a smooth finish upto the window frame, but am worried that it would crack...