Recent content by Mel_P

Thanks - will try tomorrow when I visit my daughter's house again. Have purchased a new interlock which I am assured is the correct model! Mel

The thing has finished it cycle and the "door locked" light goes out - but the door remains firmly shut! How do I open the door - AFTER unplugging: - is there some latch inside? - does pulling a piece of string behind the door work on this model? I need to open the door to get the...

I have refitted the front door seal (with the wire / spring loop! - tricky) on my daughters washer drier but the rubber is a bit soft and I think the rubber seal may have a limited life. I presume she pulled it off by pulling too much washing out and has used it for a while with seal only...

Questions, more questions! BUT good ones! I would use the "volt-free" as the circuit would be part of an exisiting loop which makes / breaks a 230V circuit - just like the time switch. I think I will stick to the Honeywell! Thanks.

I suppose I could use one of these using the "volt-free" contacts to make-break the link? http://www.horstmann.co.uk/downloads/ElectronicDocuments/ThermoStats/RF%20Programmable%20Room%20Thermostat.pdf

Looks good to me - thanks.

Hello, My daughter has a Gloworm Ultimate (60FF I think but the wiring is the same). She has a timeswitch fitted but no roomstat and the house temperature control is not very good :cry: . To fit a room thermostat do I just fit a (240v rated) thermostat in series with the timeswitch...

It's the microswitch on the timer - it was "fused" in the on position.

The one on the timer cam.

Yes. The pump was on all the time and the boiler did come on ocassionally as the water was being circulated via the bypass loop and loosing heat. (this is my daughters heating system and as they are out at work / always busy they didn't notice the thing was on all of the time. it was only...

Well.... I emailed Glow-Worm and they suggested making sure terminal "SL" really was at 0v when it should be - otherwise a microswitch fault. It was at 240V - checked microswitches and one ws duff in that it seemed to allow sufficient leakage to fool the control PCB - replaced microswitch...

Yes - but £70 is a bit steep ! Thanks for your thoughts.

Hi again - yes it is a fully pumped system and link is not there. If I disconnect the wire connected to "P" the pump does not recevie power so it is obviously related to this connection.

Its a 60FF and the pdf manual (downloaded) implies it operates on time (from the fault finding flowcharts. How can I tell to make sure? There are 4 neons and they all work so all should be OK - but! The flow charts for pump run on imply I need a new PCB - but that's £70 -80 Mel

Boiler is Glow worm ultimate. Seems to operate correctly and has boiler bypass valve part open Just replaced electronic time switch as it seemed to have "died". Thought this might solve the problem of pump run on. There is continuous mains voltage on terminal "P" of boiler barrier...