Recent content by MickyMann

I've just discoverd that the height of the Elite polymer is 265 mm so that's a whole 30mm clearance! I might just go for that. Thanks to all for your help.

OK, we've all had it. So what did you really mean?

Sorry, foyers? And where/how on (this?) forum? Do you mean registering on Texecom's website? Again sorry, it's been a long day.

Thanks, it sounds appealing, however the existing panel is located in a restricted position...the height space is 295 mm and I believe the Elite is 285mm! That's not allowing much room for ventilation. Also, equally important - is the software freely available to a non-professional installer...

After a few frustrating hours, discovered there's a Texecom Excel which, for a panel AND LCD keypad isn't a lot more expensive that the Veritas R8 (or R8+) and considerably cheaper that the Elite. Anyone got any views re. false economy etc.

History: We've a 10 year old (coincidentally EXACTLY 10yrs to the day since I fitted it!) Texecom Veritas R8 which has developed an intermittent fault (Zone 5). Even with the sensor cables removed and a shorting link on the terminals the keypad occasionally shows the zone as "open". Tried...

All the other radiators in the house are fitted with bayonet-type fitting15mm Danfoss TRVs; they're all still working after at least 27 years. Not impressed with BOSS!

Thanks

We've a utility room radiator with 10mm pipework; fitted about 6 years ago it has a BOSS TRV which has failed (sensor plunger just flops around as if the wax sensor has leaked) and the radiator is always "on". I don't consider 6 years a reasonable life so I'm reluctant to buy another BOSS head...

We've a Worcester Greenstar gas combi-boiler controlled by a Honeywell CM921 wireless 'stat/controller (retained from our previous installation). The Honeywell is about 8 years old and despite still working well, the display is now barely viewable (common issue I believe) having deteriorated...

A (hopefully) final note on this. Might I be so bold as to point to rule 10 of The forum Rules, which has the following link " //www.diynot.com/forums/plumbing/diy-gas.8090/ " Quote from the 3rd last paragraph on that page.... "Water carrying parts of a boiler unrelated to gas or...

Oilhead....The point of my post??? I was asking so that... (1) if it was user fixable I would know where to look and not have to replace on a trial and error basis (like those I mentioned). (2) if it wasn't, then I'd know what to expect when a "competent person" turned up and not employ him...

DP, am I to assume your response is because I'm not a "GS fitter" and if I were to consider a DIY repair, would not be "qualified" to work on a purely wet-plumbing/electrical issue? Hmmmm FYI, if I call in a "professional" to do work for me, I like to know in advance what he'll be doing...

Any ideas what it might be then? diverter valve, diverter motor? although I guess if you knew you'd have mentioned it. Mick

I'm not convinced about anything, that's why I'm asking; I'm naive enough to think that someone out there has experienced this problem before and will give me a definitive "It's xx that's causing the problem". Mick