Recent content by mikely

These are typical PWM driver ICs used in 12V MR16 LED lamps: http://datasheets.maximintegrated.com/en/ds/MAX16840.pdf http://www.digchip.com/datasheets/parts/datasheet/838/AMC7150-pdf.php The ICs can accept an input voltage of up to 40 and 48V respectively. I would not expect 14.8V to be any...

There is no electrical reason why you couldn't. Simply wire them in parallel. Either can control the heating, with the limitation that you describe.

If you only had wires to TL, H and N, in accordance with: http://www.gasboilerparts.co.uk/assets/product-files/P%20PRT2-1.pdf then the way you connected the Centaurstat sounds correct. Do you have the link from TL to COM, or is there a separate wire to COM?

If you mean it won't spin, but otherwise the drum still turns, then it is probably the motor brushes that have worn out. See number 4) here: //www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=52827

The Pumped/ Gravity link on the rear of the unit is in the Gravity (G) position so HW will be on whenever CH is on.

There seems to be lots of advice against attempting to use a Nest thermostat, but if you want to, I can’t see it being too difficult if you have a sufficient level of technical competence. The Nest is designed to work with American 24V ac HVAC control systems. As you suggest, you would need...

A simple temperature switch module (note will only switch 24V): http://www.velleman.co.uk/contents/en-uk/d51_Controllers.html Or something a bit more advanced: http://www.conrad-uk.com/ce/en/product/198545/Conrad-1004-FOX-Temperature-Controller Or a version with two independently...

An alternative may be to fit a programmable TRV, such as the Honeywell HR20: http://www.conrad-uk.com/ce/en/product/615952/ I use these in a couple of rooms that we do not need to heat in the morning.

No indeed. You need to fit a time switch. Sticking with Honeywell, the ST9100C 7 day timer should do the job nicely.

The CM67 is a programmable thermostat so provides timed control of the CH. I assume as you haven’t mentioned a programmer, you don’t have one at all and the HW is permanently on. If so, you just need to add a single channel time switch to control the hot water, such as one of these...

Yes, it's low voltage.

That's good. I wonder what caused the stat failure?

Yes it should.

Sorry about the comma! I think it’s unlikely that your tank thermostat is faulty, but possible. To check, try disconnecting it and testing continuity through it. If possible, change its state by varying the set temp. With HW on at the programmer, you should get live at terminal 6 of the...

If you have wired as per: http://www.honeywelluk.com/Documents/Full-Install/pdf/1083.pdf then with the link on the ST699 as shown L-5-8, you will get live fed to your tank stat on C or 2 (depending on HW on or HW off). So not sure what you mean by ‘L-5-8 does not supply a feed to my airing...