Recent content by MisterMuddle

The 10mm2 T+E cable runs up to the loft, runs across 2 joists (clipped on the top) then turns 90 degrees and is clipped to a third joist, along to the top of the pull switch. Then from the pull switch it goes back into the loft for a 12inches, then down the landing wall, clipped into plastic...

There was a 7.5 kw shower fitted before. All I have done is remove the dirty old shower & tiling to replace them with new stuff. I was just puzzled as to why there was no protective sheath over the cable. If I just plaster then tile over the cable again as before will it pass a part P exam...

Hi all. I'm doing some redecorating work and fitting a new 8.5 kw shower. I already have a 10mm2 cable fitted, but there 'was' no physical cable protection, apart from a thin layer of plaster and the old wall tiles. Can I simply cover it with metal sheathing strip and plaster over the top or...

Well I've done it! I fastened a batten over the exposed joist in the pic (only on the end that is nailed to the sloping ceiling). The other side was fine, as it is right above a wall, and never moved a mm while I was cutting. I was just worried about the nailed-on end, but all was fine in the...

OK, here's a couple of pictures. You can see the larger hole I have made, as well as the joist that needs to be cut. The other picture shows the slope of the ceiling above the landing (& cracked emulsion!). The exposed joist you see fastens to one of the rails that you see holding the...

Oh yes, don't worry I was going to do that anyway, I'll be fastening a large batten across three joists... a couple of extra noggins won't hurt either will they? I'll be cutting the middle one only when I'm absolutely sure it won't move!! Have you even seen a joist suspended at one end by only...

Thanks for that - I'm just a bit nervy about cutting the joist because:- a) it's a big piece of timber (5x2) b) the other end of it is nailed/secured to one of the (sorry I don't know what they are called) sloping timbers that form the side of the roof. There is no wall below that end...

Hi! I would like to mak my loft hatch door bigger.My house i a 2 bedroom semi and was built in the mid-1930's. The current hatch is only 18 wide or so and it's a really tight squeeze to get up there! The loft joists are 5x2's but the hatch is near the end of the house, where the roof slopes on...

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Sorry to hijack the post here, but would building regs allow a sink to be plumbed into one of those special pan connectors? Could there be any nasty smells coming the new sink? :? Cheers! Shaun

I guess my proposed fall of 18mm per mtr is fine then! :D Thanks to everyone for replying - I've learned a lot from this forum, & the archived info is priceless. Cheers, Shaun

That's a great idea! I'll cut the CI pipe at the point where the new branch will go, and replace everything above with new plastic parts, even if I have to remove & replace the CI pipe in my present toilet. Do you know of any online catalogues (UK) that show all the necessary parts I need? I...

Thanks for that link! It looks like the permitted branch length is 6 metres on a slope of 18mm per metre, so my new branch will be joining the soil stack below the existing one. Great! :D I will be punching a relatively large hole in my twin wall (1930's build), but am wondering whether to also...

Hi! I'm fitting a toilet & sink in my bedroom. The new loo's waste will be coming out of the same wall as the existing bathroom loo, but the distance between the new toilet and existing (cast iron) soil stack is approx. 12 ft. Is this a problem?:?: Any help greatly appreciated!