Recent content by mnemonix

Cheers, yes they're going on the floor! I was more concerned about the quality of these particular tiles. Are they really a quarry tile or just something that gives the appearance of one?

Does anyone have any experience of these, as sold by Wickes and I suspect Topps too: http://www.wickes.co.uk/red-quarry-floor-tiles/invt/166173/ http://www.toppstiles.co.uk/tprod3743/section1052/Quarry-Tiles-Red-Wall-and-Floor-Tile-15x15cm.html They're obviously not traditional quarry...

ignore sorry.

I have to say I'm going round in circles here with conflicting advice, in this thread and the archives. Perhaps I should say what I'm hoping to end up with: Something I stand a chance of achieving despite being an amateur with cheap and readily available materials, in a reasonable amount of...

I understand the use of lime render externally to allow the walls to breath, just as we should not paint and seal brickwork with non porous paint (as well as the material benefit of its softness and flexibility). I'm not sure about internally though where we have a different situation wrt...

It sounds like you're really going to town on this shed! A drawing or sketch of your wall, roof, eaves etc details would help as it's difficult to work out exactly what's going on here. In principle you are trying to stop moisture vapour from the warm air inside penetrating the building...

Just some of the many layers before I hacked it off: It wasn't like this all over, but these areas had the most layers visible! Bottom right, very lightweight grey speckly stuff (came off in huge sheets). Centre of the hole left, soft red, crumbly stuff. Some sand/cement, skim...

The wall was a patchwork of everything you can imagine from repairs over the years. The most recent stuff at the bottom of the walls I reckon done at the same time as the dpc was very lightweight, grey with big white speckles in it. Above that, mainly soft browning with finishing plaster over...

Good call; but not the brickwork, that just needs damping down right?

Thanks Steve. So scratch coat with waterproofer then float coat without? Should I do these at about 6mm each so it finishes flush with the existing plaster, then skim the whole wall with multifinish?

Hello everyone, Last few days I've read everything I can on this forum about plastering & rendering and been practicing my technique with base coat & finish plastering on a practice wall. Before anyone says get a pro in, I lost my job when I bought this house and have no choice but to...

I was able to rub out the tamping marks with the trowel with a bit of effort, which worked up a sort of slurry on the surface which I smoothed off. Should I be concerned? If it's hard by tomorrow will it be ok? It's pretty cool and damp here, though it's indoors. (edit) I can easily push the...

Thanks for the quick reply. So this isn't going to make the concrete surface more fragile? Where it's dried already it's almost glossy, whereas rubbing it up gives it a grainy appearance and leaves some loose sand on the surface. The firmness of the concrete after 18 hours is such that if...

Got my concrete in yesterday. Today it's reasonably firm and no ponding water. Can I rub it up with a steel trowel to smooth out the tamping marks? I tried a test patch which seemed to bring some water and sand to the surface as it smoothed, but I don't want to cause any damage to the concrete...

Ok, you're not missing anything, I didn't appreciate you only had the wall thickness to bear on :oops: As others have said consult your architect or SE to check, but 150 bearing is usually just cited as a standard detail unless it's been specifically designed differently.