Recent content by MonsterMonster

Closed circuit with 10 double rads, two towel rails, Adey Magnaclean Pro 2. Yesterday, Saturday, I drained my circuit and replaced a rad and refilled along with 2x500ml of Wickes inhibitor. I have more work to do in one or two weeks time that requires more draining down after which I'll use...

I've noticed that on some close-coupled toilets the syphon valve washer has one side smooth and the other ribbed or, rather, has two concentric grooves. Which way up are these supposed to go? I've always assumed ribbed side down onto the ceramic as if it was up then the outer rib\edge might not...

Just started laying these Adore Touch floor tiles (4mm version I think) and am finding every 5th tile is not square! 5 boxes intermixed (as per web instructions) and all boxes have the same lot number. Therefore one box probably had a complete set of duds! These tiles are 304.8mm x 609.6mm...

Spoke too soon. All was fine for 15 mins with heating on until I increased the turn on the return lockshield and it began to leak again from the union I can't tighten the union any further. The unions seem to line up okay and connect without any obvious problem. I've smeared Hawk White (5 years...

All connected after some cursing at leaks from the unions. Eventually put some Hawk White on valve seats and on the brass flanges and all seems to be leak free with heating turned on. Thanks for everyones help.

Just out of interest what is the correct name for the joining of this type of tail flange to a valve rim? I would have said "compression" but I assume that is where an olive is permanently compressed around the pipe though not in this case.

It's amazing what you can do with a Swiss Army knife saw! Chopped out about 1/2" in front of the holes and the pipes magically moved into the correct position under the tails. Job done without draining or ripping up floor boards.

There's some play in the pipes under the floor boards so I could make the floorboard holes bigger towards the front and position the pipes directly under the tails. Failing that drain and bend/replace and take the oportunity to fit a TRV perhaps. Thanks.

I've just removed an old towel rail and a installed new one of same width. However, the new rail sits about a inch further from the wall. I can pull the pipe and valve over to be inline with the tail brass flange albeit slightly inclined and connect hand tight. Would I be right in thinking this...

Yep you're right, I was hoping not to drain the system and thought it straight forward to reuse the valves.

I'm in the process of replacing a heated wet towel rail but forgot to recover the original tails and examine how they were seated before dumping the old rail. After showing pictures of the existing lockshield type valves that are still attached to the flow and return pipes the plumber merchants...

Just been looking at my old threads and thought I'd update six years on! It turns out that the area in question used to be where an internal chimney stack used to be. In effect the window is where the fireplace was located. The bubbling lime mortar is a reaction to the various sooty chemicals...

Thanks Noseall, Since posting I have read a few more tips on laying screed. I was going to prime the floor with a PVA type wash but most people suggest a simple cement slurry (including you I think). Dumb question is what proportions of what (including water) makes this up? Thanks

Roughcaster, excuse my chipping in and my ignorance but what mix ratios do you use to make this "cement grout slurry"? How much water and what consistency should it be?

I am building a solid hearth for a wood burner consisting an outer single layer of blue engineering bricks (see pic), infilled with 75-85mm screed and after about a month+ of drying top it off with Sheera slate tiles. The existing surface that the screed is going down on appears to be solid flat...