Recent content by nikosof

thanks again for the help. From the configuration I have I think that the old light was one with an integrated switch. Unfortunatelly, the one I want to install doesn't have a pull cord switch integrated to it, but that's allright. What would life be if everything was straightforward? not that i...

crafty, ideally i want them to be put at the same place using that one set of wires. is it pos?

well, if i fit the lamp directly to the red and black it will be permanently on. That;s why I need to add a switch. But I'm not sure what will go in the switch and what will come out -what;s the naked/black sleeve?

here goes: there are 3 wires out of the wall :R-live (not switched to other room lights), B and Naked with partial black sleeve. the light itself just has a L & N terminal. I suspect the current wall config -inherited from previous owner- worked for a lamp with embedded switch? hope it...

guys I'm getting a little perplexed. This is supposed to power a lamp over the sink. In this case, shouldn't there be a neutral to close the circuit? I mean, what do i connect to the N of the lamp?

many thanks crafty!

Hi all. I have some difficulty with a pull cord i want to install. There are 3 wires coming out of the socket : a mains live (red) a neutral (black) and a 3rd that is naked with a small black sleeve. The red is always on irrespective of the light switch. I have a pull cord with just 2 terminals...

thanks baldelectrician!

yep, my hot water cylinder only uses the immersion heater element to heat water (not connected to boiler). thanks breezer

thanks baldelectrician. the funny thing is that the guys who installed the cylinder (i had it replaced) bought this and brought it along for this purpose. They didn't connect because they didn't know how to. So what kind of timer would you recommend for that? tks

Hi all I want to replace my ageing timer for the hot water cylinder immersion heater, and I am unsure of the connections! I have a Drayton LP111 (the plate connections are N,L,1,2,3,4 and E). The current timer (Superswitch -no extra model details on the face) has 2 N,L connections (one 'ouy'...

thanks Chris. It worked!

oh, don't go there. thank god i've got a spare drayton 711. never mix 13 & 3 amp!!! some things you learn the hard way.

thanks Chris so you suggest that i connect red to A and yellow -not blue- to B. in which case i tape blue and do not connect? i have 4 spares :lol: tks for the help!

Hi all I replaced -rather tried- a vintage honeywell stat with a new cm67. the property has a potterton suprima L for heating (water is supllied through a separate(!!) water cylinder). The boiler is connected to a programmer, an Invesys/Drayton Lifestyle LP111. The problems started when i...