Recent content by northernstair

The opening you would need for our loft hatch is 726x562mm this gives a clear opening of 700x530mm, also bere in mind any loft balustrade you may need around the loft hatch. http://www.northernstairparts.co.uk/Plastic-Loft-Hatch-Model-P5370L/1600.htm

try travis perkins, Wickes, B&Q

Fair enough, I have used several Oak veneered doors, some are seriously quality and hard to tell the difference, plus they dont warp and bend

I would use a two part laquer, high gloss and easy to keep clean, even the laquer used for solid floors, this is even stronger :lol:

I would go primed MDF, surely you only need two top coats of Acrylic or gloss? With the mitres I always use a plane, like a block plane or smoothing plane to par off either the front or back, whichever is touching in the wrong places, since you are painting it wont matter which way you do it as...

They look pretty good to me... sometimes people buy things that just dont fit or they change their mind then that leaves you to grab a bargain off them, if in doubt ask for more pictures, descriptions and make sure it is solid oak!

In my experience I glued and nailed, punched the nails in and filled, does that make me a bad person?

The minimum head height over the stairs is 2000mm, you need to keep this if you ever want to sell the house again, creating the cupboard is the best idea and simple to do, builders will use that wall to fix a winder staircase to when converting your loft so bare that in mind should you be...

Hi, all loft ladders should be easy enough for a keen DIYer to fit himself as they are sold off the shelve, with regard to the hatch I would just buy another drop down hatch that comes with a frame and is insulated. It will probably be made of plastic and will come with fitting brackets and...

I have an online company and I know for a fact that online companies unless extremely well known have a bit of a bad name, not all online companies are bad, check to see if they have things like a contact us page, terms and conditions and distance selling regulations also check to see payment...

The only way to do this is to take a template of the stair radius and make the timber nosing in sections, obviously it would only have to be square shaped not molded but you would never do it in one piece, either that or have a section of wood sent to you from bendywood.com this wood can be bent...

You wouldnt want to use the same holes anyway because the strength would no longer be there, I used to do as above, matches and wood glue all the way

Yes, more than likely you will come across a grain change, this will be visable to the eye, if you hit that the timber will split badly and the plane will jam/kick back, then I would simply start again from the other side and meet myself in the middle, its always wise to scribe to the door frame...

I think Sadolin is anti slip, I always say never run around in socks!

I would slowly plane the front touching edge down or the rear touching edge down (depending on which way the wall was out) until I found the right angle, obviously you would leave the skirting long in case you went too far and cut to size when you found the right angle