Recent content by oldBiker

Update on the adhesive removal........ Last Saturday I sealed the bathroom door from the inside, and around the cable feeding in for my angle grinder. I had a pair of goggles on, with a face mask and ear plugs well into their cavities, and set off grinding the old adhesive away..........well...

Tictic, Thanks for that. Its a good idea if there is a possibility that you may need to replace in a few years, and I will remember this for future projects. Normally I would not replace for years, but in this case I had previously tiled the floor with anti-slip tiles that are good for their...

Thanks for that. You have confirmed what I thought , that there is no easy way to get around this problem. In the past I have used my SDS drill with a bolster chisel on, and this was to remove adhesive from a bitumen floor in the kitchen. Not sure if this is the best option for the wooden floor...

I have previously tried quite successfully using a steamer on wall adhesive. I could also use my small angle grinder with the door closed and sealed and the window open, using ear pugs and a mask and eye protection. I just thought there might be an easier method....... oldBiker

Three years ago I fitted ceramic floor tiles to my bathroom floor, using Palace Rapid set adhesive, that I mixed myself with water. My wife and I are unhappy with the style of the floor tile and have decided to remove them. The floor tiles are coming away from the adhesive reasonably easy...

Mr H, Not sure what happened before, but in the last couple of hours I have been fitting insulation to my modified CH pipework and tidied my workshop, and after I finished that, I thought, I will just give it a try again, and Hey Presto like magic all is working !!!!!!!!! Gone through all the...

Hi Mr H, I went to 240v B and Q and purchased a Drayton HTS3. (The previous stat was a HTS2) Connected up and still not working, however......... voltages.... Under 50degC calling for heat: TB6 (N) to TB3 is giving 240v TB6 (N) to TB2 is giving 240v TB6 (N) to TB1 is giving 240v but...

Will do. Thanks.

Forgot to add............ For those of you who may think I did the gas connection myself..sorry you are wrong, I have a pal who is registered and he did this on my behalf, but he is a plumber and not an electrical (control) engineer. Unfortunately now I have to get my wiring...

Mr H, Thanks for that. It appears we got there in the end. Thanks very much for your help. You were the only one that had the perseverance with me and my ramblings over all the connections etc. I think the other plumbers that view this site and particular posting will be wondering what we...

Mr H, Sorry about that......... I have only just noticed on the cylinder stat....... The cyl stat identifies A as red and common. B as black and normally closed (NC) C as yellow and Normally open (NO) I put the cyl stat up to max ie 80 degC and A and B were common I put the cyl stat to...

Hi, Just to clarify... Yes I have been using my multimeter for continuity and voltages etc........ The cylinder stat has three wires connected to TB1,TB2 and TB3. Red goes to TB3, Gr/y goes to TB2 and black goes to TB1. I disconnected the three wires to the cylinder stat, then checked...

Hi its me again........ Firstly the hot water cylinder is cold, and needs heating. Checked all the voltages at the boiler, and they are as last week ie giving 50volts when HW is ON, and with HW and CH together. Remember CH is working OK and the valve is positioning itself correctly. Traced...

Hi its me back again. I wired all the pieces of kit as advised on previous posts, and I still have a problem. I have checked and double checked every single core of cable at each piece of kit. 1) Heating is OK. When advised by the programmer, if stat says go it happens. 2) Hot water, the pump...

Mr H, Thanks for that advice. I will be back on the forum sometime on Friday when I have wired the existing system, and then we can take the next step forward as and when. Thanks again, oldBiker