Recent content by pmx_super

Thanks for your analysis. I'll get a G3 engineer in, but the useless bloke who did the installation is long gone along with the useless builders he worked for and the crooked BC inspectors who signed it all off. More surprising than the idiot who installed it getting it wrong, is the two guys...

Blue is incoming cold main and the cold water to the rest of the house. Red goes to the unvented cylinder.

I overheard the engineer who serviced my unvented cylinder the other day checking something about the installation with his boss. He concluded with "it's not how we do it but I guess it's OK", and moved onto other more important matters (my non compliant flue). I was curious enough that I...

My boiler flue is too close to the vent cover for an extractor fan. The engineer who did the boiler service proposed a flue management kit that'd set me back £200+, since I'm not allowed to DIY it. It occurred to me that I could in effect just do the same to the vent outlet, which I could DIY...

Job done and all sorted. A 5mm bolt was just the ticket. No need for any epoxy. Thanks for your input. £10 fix vs the £1,200 I was quoted by the dealer!

I could do 5mm, but I thought smaller would be better to avoid removing too much material, since the hollow circular rod wasn't designed to have force applied in that way. On the other hand I was unsure of using such a skinny bolt, which is why I mentioned it. That wouldn't be DIY for me. I...

I have a failed weld in the handle that releases the driver seat slider mechanism on my car. The car's only worth a few £k so I'm considering a DIY repair, and wanted to run my plan past a few practical minds. The picture shows the failed weld. I'm thinking of a belt and braces approach where...

I'm the absence of a yes/no answer I did a bit of goggling and found this demo, which feels like a strong "probably" (if not a "yes definitely") to my original question.

Incoming is lead as far as the original meter location. The grey hep was connected to the original incoming mains then routed into the cupboard under the stairs. The boundary stopcock was replaced during the work. To say I regret not replacing the lead is an understatement.

From where you see it disappear into the floor it crosses the hall and then goes up to the ceiling, so about 4m length incl 3 right angle bends, before splitting out into the various circuits. Most of the pipework from there is 15mm, but there's 22mm copper down into the unvented HW cylinder.

From original post, perhaps swap "measurable difference" for "observable difference "

No measurements. Just subjective. The water used to blast out of the kitchen tap that was right beside the meter. None of the outlets "blast" any more.

My water meter was moved during building works. They ran 22mm from the incoming main to the meter, and 22mm back under the floor out to the rest of the house, but there's this silly 15mm loop with 3 elbows in between. My water pressure and flow aren't great. Do you think it'd make a measurable...

Thanks. I hadn't even heard of etch primers. Every link I clicked was for products intended by the manufacturer for metal. Is there such a thing as an etch primer for wood, or would you just use one of the metal based primers?

Hi, I have a log cabin which I painted with a water based treatment recommended by the manufacturer (Carefree protectant / Tuin). The stuff doesn't live up to their hype and after 3 years is pretty patchy and worn, but more importantly the pine came out as bright tangerine which we've regretted...