Recent content by pulck

So do I just open the windows more often and the mould won't reappear? Don't I need to do anything at the level of the sealant to keep the mould away?

Doesn't ventilation decrease humidity? I was wondering if water was somehow seeping under the sealant. Perhaps movement in the shower tray (since this is an ensuite bathroom to a new loft conversion) has created a small gap?

I had a walk-in shower installed just under a year ago and the sealant on the outside of the shower screen has gone mouldy. In fact, it started going mouldy some months ago, which seems a bit quick to spoil. The mould is behind/inside the sealant and is along the whole of the screen. The tiler...

These photos show the 2 areas of damage from underneath. I've had another quote now that sounds reasonable for repairing the iron gutter, but don't want to get it done if it's just going to rot again in a few years. The 2 roofers I've spoken to seem keen to replace with PVC.

I have a leaking gutter on the front of my 1890s terraced house. A roofer suggested it should be replaced with plastic guttering, which seems a shame. To do that and repair the damaged soffit - which I believe is concrete(?) and needs minor filing and repainting - they're asking around £1.5K...

Looking at the fitting, I think you're right. It's designed to be screwed on so there's isn't much surface that will be in contact with the tiles.

Thank you! I was hoping to hear some advice like this. The wall is the exterior wall at the rear of the new loft dormer, so they must be cavity walls, right?

Yes, good idea, I'll try asking the plumber. Although it was over 6 months ago that it was fitted. Unfortunately I can't look in the loft because the bathroom is in the loft conversion!

I want to hang a toilet-roll holder in my newly built bathroom and I'll have to drill through tiles. I'll be drilling about 6 inches from the side of the cistern and, on the other side, about 6 inches from the screen of a walk-in shower. Can I assume that bit of the wall will be clear of...

Thanks for all the advice and suggestions. It's interesting - SLC seems to divide people.... I've just spoken to 2 different professional fitters. I'd sent them photos of the uneven chipboard panels and asked how much to level them. One suggested levelling the whole room with SLC (£7 per m2)...

My hesitation is simply out of fear. I'm not an experienced DIYer and my nightmare would be the SLC leaking through to the ceiling below. That's why I was rather optimistically hoping a thicker underlay would do the job. So on balance I think I'll get some professional quotes. Thanks for all...

If you think it will really be worth it, I will get a professional to level it with SLC. I'm just making sure I don't throw good money after bad... I'm guessing it will be quite expensive to level, given it's chipboard and in the loft, so sealing will have to be very thorough.

I may speak to them, but I favour sorting it out by myself if it's possible and straightforward, otherwise I'll be waiting weeks. By paper underlay, I'm guessing you mean this sort of thing? Or maybe this which is thicker?

I don't think I'm going to try my hand at sanding it! I'd make it worse rather than better. Can I just confirm if the underlays I suggested are any good or not? Otherwise I suppose I'm left with the option of getting a professional in, since I'm pretty sure screeding a chipboard floor is...

Not sure I could sort it out with my toolset/competence. I could probably make the step a little bit smoother, but I doubt I could produce a gradual slope. Here's the worst step. Wouldn't the 2mm or 3mm underlays equalise this?