Recent content by ReX83

Sure - makes sense! Thanks for the response ;-).

Hi, I am facing a relatively new problem with my 6 years old Biasi Riva Plus HE 24C ERP boiler. The main exchanger was changed 2 years ago (it was leaking). When I run the hot water to fill the bathtub it goes in lock-out (safety thermostat lock-out error). It is enough to re-start the boiler...

It is 40 mm and on the outside it is welded to other 2 angles, so I wouldn't want to touch it. Anyway I gave a try cutting sections using a multitool and then trying to break the smaller parts with a flat screwdriver during the lunch break (the pleasure to work from home ;-)) and I managed to...

Here is the picture (BTW - I should have done this before doing the tanking...). The new drain will be where the red * is on the picture, about 6cm closer to the wall than now. About 3-5 cm higher. I can push the white trap 3cm closer to the wall, but not more, due to the 90 degree elbow...

Continuing on the off topic trend and @StopHammerTime availability... I need to rearrange the waste pipework (as the new bath has a different placement of the drain) and currently I have a zig-zag solvent weld pipe (with few parts welded). What is the best way to rearrange? If I force the joints...

I suppose on both sides of the seal, right?

So you leave the bottom seal as it is - dry and use sealant with the top or in place of the top. Why this? Why basins yes and bathtubs no?

So, for bathtub drains, you remove the original seals and use silicon or you put silicon on the two sides of the each seal? First time I used Plumbers Mait was due to a sink drain that started leaking right after installation - I was surprised as the seal was new and it was very tightly...

If I am not mistaken, also my Biasi boiler has o-rings. I think that's due to the temperature, rubber quality and placement. Researches indicate that the temperature and lubrication play a very big role in their lifetime (e.g...

To be on the safe side I try to protect the end of the pipes when I need to run them trough cavities. When it is required to cut them, I usually inspect the pipe and move the cut accordingly, if there is any visible sign. Mind you: I am just an engineer with a passion for DIY ;-). Actually...

I find this no-brand material of good quality. Actually the connectors have a clever design where the metal spring (that keeps the pipe in place) is behind the o-ring (and not in front), so the spring doesn't score/mark the pipe where the o-ring will sit. I have seen other brands and the order...

I agree - I came to the same conclusion.

The no-name products used at my house (sold by Toolstation) have inserts without o-rings with an inner diameter equal to the non-full bore valves from the same series. I wanted to upgrade to full bore valves from another brand, but I think it is pointless, as anyway the bottlenecks are the...

A friend of mine (not in the UK) was used to do it... I'll need to copy the idea :).

In the end I decided to paint the fences myself. As z0mbi3 said, this product is very easy to apply (it is a cream) and it took me 3 half days to do 50 meters. The most boring DIY job I have ever done, but with some music I managed to survive :-). I'll save the party idea for the next big...