Recent content by richie4236

The space is a bit limited and I don't really want to do the whole airing cupboard. Would this work if I made it out of a couple of 22mm Ts, a short length to get the crossbar spaced properly, and a 15mm reducer for the fill? Distance from return to flow pipe-centres is about 5cm.

Just so I'm clear, we're talking about this when we say "H section"? Vent goes up to above the F&E tank and bends over, so air gets out there, and so does any water if there's a problem? Fill comes after the vent, but before the pump? Am I getting it?

This is on the LHS of our airing cupboard on the first floor. It's about 30cm below the ceiling, and is the highest point in the system. 1) From the boiler. 2) To the vent above the F&E tank in the loft. 3) To the pump. About 30 cm down the pipe. 4) From the F&E tank in the loft...

Recently drained and refilled our open vented system with X400 to clean it out. It's been a long time since it was done. It went well. I carefully filled and then vented all the rads, but there's clearly air in the system. What I think is happening, is this: At the very top of our system...

I gave up on the boiler. It seemed risky, and I couldn't find any installation documents that clearly stated what the valves purpose was. Although, given it's layout and location at the bottom of the boiler I *think* it is intended as a drain. On closer inspection, I noticed that the...

Top tip on the foil. Thanks. I've successfully drained the system and all the downstairs rads.

We have an open vented system that hasn't been drained for some time. The pump is struggling, but before I change it, I wanted to drain and refill the system with X400 for a week or two, then drain and re-fill. The only drain I can find is on the boiler, which isn't the lowest point in the...

We have a power shower in our family bathroom which is triggered and powered from the lighting circuit (switched and permanent live). My problem is that our bathroom has a large east-facing window, which means there's no reason to turn the light on in the morning during spring/summer/autumn...

Thanks for responding. 1) I'm not sure how high the pressure is, I just know it's higher than anywhere else I've lived. The reservoir is on a steep hill at the end of our street. I assume that's got something to do with it. Is there a way to test it and get a figure? 2) Thanks. I'll...

We had an electric shower installed a few weeks ago, and it has a solenoid valve that shuts off the water abruptly. Because of where we live our mains pressure is very high, resulting in a very pronounced water hammer effect. This morning that caused the compression joint on the pipe to fail...

We've fitting a new bathroom and have started pulling the tiles off in the shower. Behind them is some kind of cement board rather than plasterboard. Picture below. Although we've been careful, some of it has broken away from the studwork behind. Firstly, what is it? I've fitted a bathroom...

Recently had electricians in, running thick cables for power showers. The route they took meant chopping a section of plasterboard to reveal the breezeblock wall beneath. The work is now complete, and I'm ready to close the wall up, but I'm not sure the best way to do it. I've fixed stud...

That's kind of what I was asking. I wasn't sure if best practice for an isolator was to put it at a high level. Noted. Just so I understand this answer..... a socket creates a cross shaped safety zone on a wall, but an isolator doesn't?

Thanks for responding. It's a plug-in inflatable hot tub, rather than a permanent thing. A glorified paddling pool that is defined as class II. It does have a separate "optional" earthing point on the bottom of the pump box, which I have connected to the outside tap.

I'm installing an outdoor socket for our hot tub. I've gone through the wall and installed an IP66 rated enclosure, and had indented to spur off an existing socket in the living room. I drilled at the centre height of that socket on the adjacent wall to make sure the cable run will be in the...