Recent content by Robert Wooler

Yes im pretty sure its F&E tank, its a smallish tank, the one supplying the cylinder is a lot bigger, also this tank is full of dirty water, with some sludgy bits, i wouldn't want to bathe in it :)

I had some work done recently on a 3-port valve, and whilst i had the engineers here i had my boiler serviced, which hadn't been serviced for quite some time. The current issue i'm having (well two) is, when the hot water fires up, i normally get like a surge noise, like lots of water dropping...

Just like to thank you guys, i had to get a heating engineer in, to change the 3-port valve, i was going to take the back off there and then, but i didnt want to mess with electrics, so thought il get someone one in. It wouldn't of been easy to take back off, as it was held on by twist tabs, and...

Hi, there is no embossed lettering on the unit i can see, but the leaflet says 'CENTER' at the top with 4 square boxes (like the microsofts old windows logo) Rob

This is all i have picture-wise of it, there was an installation guide nearby a Wolseley company with the only reference to a model number was something on the sheet 95C-10952

Yes i see, i just assumed because i was getting heat right along the HW output that it was working, oh dear! Would this explain why my RADS were always on no matter what i had the unit or programming unit on? Im guessing i set this to MAN and it still doesn't work, then this a full unit...

power off didnt make the slide move, im able to move it without any additional resistance, what i mean is, is not slack and its not tight, and the movement feel is just the same whether power is on or off Rob

there is no spring on it, whether its all the way to right or in auto, both sides get hot, the radiator side being the hottest and more spread, the hw side its hot near the output of the valve and slowly transferring up the pipe but nothing like what the rad pipe is like

I have just ran the hot tap, after Andy had mentioned about sticking it on for an hour, even though the pipe felt cold going into the tank, i did get some hot water, not much just a couple of litres and not very hot, but hotter than i have done when ive tried before, could this be salvageable?

i cant get it to latch manually, it just pops back out, but stays where it is, it doesnt spring back, ie if i move it all the way to the left (left is my manual end) and let go nothing happens, if move it all the way to left and then hook it into that metal catch but, after a second it jumps...

Hi, Andy yes if i put the heating on the rads heat up Alec T - They automatic valve is generating heat at both outputs A and B and the same heat, even with what i have just done for Any it generated the same heat on both the A and B outputs and that was with HW only on using the programmer...

Hi there, it's been on now for more than 1hr (around 1hr 20) there has been no change in the tempereture of the pipe going into the cylinder, i haven't tried running the hot tap as yet, i was going to hold off incase there was something you want me to check The return to boiler pipe from...

The piece where the magnet attracts is in an area where it would be easy to cut out and replace, i was more worried that this isnt the only place, and if there is a blockage in the actual cylinder then im stuck. As for X100 i think this was added when i had the pump or automatic valve replaced...

Hi there, when i felt the heat (warm to tough) at both the inlet and outlet i thought the water was going through but restricted, until i spoke to someone else who said out outlet could be pulling hot water in. So in answer to your question im not too sure Ive tried it with the cap of the...

do you mean the air vent? this is at the highest part of the pipework towards to cyclinder, thumnail attached, if so, ive had this stripped down and cleaned, when i opened the vale again, i had a rush of air, and tiny trickle of water Rob