No hot water - inlet pipe cold

[Harry Bloomfield]

i cant get it to latch manually, it just pops back out, but stays where it is, it doesnt spring back, ie if i move it all the way to the left (left is my manual end) and let go nothing happens, if move it all the way to left and then hook it into that metal catch but, after a second it jumps back out

What happens if you isolate all the power to it?

 

[terryplumb]

Your mid position valve isnt functioning as it should ,it's either u/s or there is a wiring / control issue

 

[Robert Wooler]

If there is no flow to your cylinder coil, the cleaner cannot do it's job. Rather than waste the cleaner, I would see if you can resolve your flow issue first, then try the cleaner.

I have just ran the hot tap, after Andy had mentioned about sticking it on for an hour, even though the pipe felt cold going into the tank, i did get some hot water, not much just a couple of litres and not very hot, but hotter than i have done when ive tried before, could this be salvageable?

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

Your mid position valve isnt functioning as it should ,it's either u/s or there is a wiring / control issue

If he isolates the power, it should confirm whether it is jammed (failing to move to HW), or it's a wiring error.

With no power, the spring should force it to run to the default HW position.

 

[Robert Wooler]

The pipe to coil would need to be blocked solid ,totally . Which is possible but unlikely.
The MPV is obviously not open to DHW port . It's default position under Spring pressure is to DHW.
Robert ,set programmer to hot water only ,unlatch the 3 port valve and it should slowly move under Spring pressure alone to the DHW port. See what the result is . Tell us if the pipe from the 3 port to central heating gets hot and if the spring returns the valve to its default position.

there is no spring on it, whether its all the way to right or in auto, both sides get hot, the radiator side being the hottest and more spread, the hw side its hot near the output of the valve and slowly transferring up the pipe but nothing like what the rad pipe is like

 

[HERTS P&D]

You have a faulty 3 port valve.

Andy

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

there is no spring on it, whether its all the way to right or in auto, both sides get hot, the radiator side being the hottest and more spread, the hw side its hot near the output of the valve and slowly transferring up the pipe but nothing like what the rad pipe is like

Heat will conduct along the pipe, even if there is no actual water flow. Please turn the power off and report back, whether you can feel spring pressure when you try to move the manual lever with the power off.

 

[Robert Wooler]

Heat will conduct along the pipe, even if there is no actual water flow. Please turn the power off and report back, whether you can feel spring pressure when you try to move the manual lever with the power off.

power off didnt make the slide move, im able to move it without any additional resistance, what i mean is, is not slack and its not tight, and the movement feel is just the same whether power is on or off

Rob

 

[terryplumb]

You have a faulty 3 port valve.

Andy

Your mid position valve isnt functioning as it should ,it's either u/s or there is a wiring / control issue

See above !

 

[Robert Wooler]

See above !

Yes i see, i just assumed because i was getting heat right along the HW output that it was working, oh dear! Would this explain why my RADS were always on no matter what i had the unit or programming unit on?

Im guessing i set this to MAN and it still doesn't work, then this a full unit problem? and not just the powerhead?

 

[terryplumb]

The actuator head is the box on top of the brass valve body ( I assume that's what you call the powerhead,and are not just referring to the motor ) . If you show us pictures of the 3 port valve we may recognise it ,or look all around it for makers identification . Many can have the actuator removed from the brass body , you can then check the mechanical shaft below is turning freely, and fit a new actuator .

 

[Robert Wooler]

The actuator head is the box on top of the brass valve body ( I assume that's what you call the powerhead,and are not just referring to the motor ) . If you show us pictures of the 3 port valve we may recognise it ,or look all around it for makers identification . Many can have the actuator removed from the brass body , you can then check the mechanical shaft below is turning freely, and fit a new actuator .

This is all i have picture-wise of it, there was an installation guide nearby a Wolseley company with the only reference to a model number was something on the sheet 95C-10952

 

[terryplumb]

Does the valve have the word "center" embossed on the top ? I think it is supplied by wolseley ? It's quite old ,the label says Feb 2008. I think replacement actuators are still available. But I can't remember if they can be changed without draining the system ,I think they can. Ring wolseley to confirm.

 

[Robert Wooler]

Does the valve have the word "center" embossed on the top ? I think it is supplied by wolseley ? It's quite old ,the label says Feb 2008. I think replacement actuators are still available. But I can't remember if they can be changed without draining the system ,I think they can. Ring wolseley to confirm.

Hi, there is no embossed lettering on the unit i can see, but the leaflet says 'CENTER' at the top with 4 square boxes (like the microsofts old windows logo)

Rob

 

[terryplumb]

Yes it is made by them for wolseley