Recent content by RobMit

Yes, that crack (on the RH top corner of image 2) was eliminated when the render was replaced in that area. Many thanks for your advice.

Ok, thanks. 50/50 was just a guess on my part, and I'm not sure whether JohnD noticed that part when he replied. I haven't yet done it, but I've seen another reply of yours (ie opps) where you quote Dulux's Weathershield advice to dilute up to 1 part water to 5 parts paint, which I assume...

Thanks for your answers. After I first posted, I checked the render more thoroughly, and discovered that there was an area where the render had blown, contrary to what I had thought. That has been removed (cut back to firmly attached render) and replaced. I've scraped off all the loose paint...

I have an area around one corner of my house where the paint (over render) has flaked badly (see attached photos below). The render does not seem to have blown - it sounds solid when I rap it with my knuckles. Do you think it might be sufficient to just scrape/brush off the loose paint and...

Ok, thanks for that info.

@Jackrae : Thanks for your reply, but in my case, the two rough-in boxes do not appear to have been manufactured with that in mind: the (pictorial) instructions show threaded fittings sealed with tape. In the case of the showerhead box, the brass body is cylindrical, so that there is no flat...

Thanks for your replies. I'll try Loctite 55 (Old Salt, it says Heldite is not suitable for potable water - although I'm not in the habit of drinking from a shower :), I think I'll try an inert option first). Re the video: it shows its use on iron/steel threads, but I assume it's equally...

I'm having a lot of trouble sealing parallel pipe threads into Grohe shower fittings (Rapido SmartBox 35600 and Rainshower 26483000). The threads are G 1/2, which I believe are identical to 1/2" BSPP: I've used Flomasta male couplers (Screwfix 69358). I first tried 4-5 turns of PTFE tape, but...

Thanks, that's another option that I didn't know about. Decisions...

You're right, the space between the top of the pan connector and the underside of the cistern is quite limited. I think the W8CONV would just about give room for the 90° connection, and I may have to reroute the supply connection to the cistern. Otherwise, I might try connecting to the waste...

OK, here's a couple of pics. The first of the whole of the end of the room; the pipe from the washing m/c would come in from the right-hand wall: The second is taken from the left side looking towards the pan connector and right-hand wall: Do these show what you need to see?

Thanks to you, too, Hugh. Just one thing: you say 40mm (=1.5", nominally), but the drawing on the McAlpine website shows it as 1 1/4" multifit - would that matter? Should I run it in 40mm (as it is at present), and then use a reducer just before the pan connector? (Or am I misinterpreting o/d...

Oh, brilliant, thank you - and such a quick response! I guess that since it's a standard fitting, that takes care of any questions as to whether it's allowed. I may wait for warmer weather before I change it, though :). Rob

Hi, I have a washing machine in the garage, which currently drains via a length of pipe that runs outside the house for a couple of metres before entering the underground drains - or it does normally :(. This morning, after the recent sub-zero weather, a section of the outside pipe was frozen...

In case anyone is interested in this, I did use the method above to give me confidence that it was the wax divertor valve that was at fault. Rather than use washers, I cut a short length (~4mm) of plastic (the end of a ball-point refill, in fact - I'm a true bodger), and inserted it into the...