Recent content by ronniecabers

You'll need to knock the all 3 hinge pins out, it may have a small grub screw holding it in, and remove the door sash ( much easier taking glass out first....BUT from experience once the screws start pulling out like that on those types of hinges ( butt hinges ), they generally won't stay in...

That one in your link should be absolutely fine

i'm concerned they tell you the guarantee is independent ...if they are mentioning the 10yr if they go bust , then that is an Insurance BAcked Guarantee, your guarantee will be with Safestyle, who work on very similiar processes as Everest and Anglian Windows , and Safetsyle normally try and...

Well just bear in mind they are actually Everest 2020 now , as Everest went bust in 2020! ' we are nationwide ' ---- yeah and ?? lol, hows that a sales pitch lol 10 year warranry - industry standard ( but is under review as technically it doesn't have to be - long story! ) very good...

NOw you have the barrel out , I'd be checking how well it works turning the key, this will tell you if its the barrell are the Multipoint Lock Gearbox at fault. As you trun the key the centre bit should turn , apply a little pressure and see if it sticks at all.. if so its the barrel , if not...

Ali bifold will create the biggest opening , sliders will only give less than 50% of the total opening. As has been mentioned spares is the key in the event something goes wrong. Siders parts have been around years ( except some handles have changed ) , Bifolds I have already started to...

are you sure the e gasket needs to come out? i wouldn't normally exepct an e gasket to be removed , as you'd never get the ' arrow ' back in the correct groove on the pvc profile, normally its a wedge gasket. Its also unusual ( but can happen ) to see a removable gasket outside on internally...

The door sash not closing properly sounds like it's not quite square in the.opening..twisted slightly across the horizontal or vertical. Shouldn't be able to see daylight through it when pulled close but do note that full compression of the door isn't achieved until the handle is pulled up, up...

The door hinges is normal , its where they have been adjusted ( However I am surprised to see that much adjustment on new doors , possibly not toe and heeled correctly) , some times you can see the ' pins ' , however the door being stiff is not correct, and will require to be be adjusted...

I'm.worried about cracks in the glass on either side...should be toughened or laminate glass. Laminate will crack , toughened will shatter

a upvc door combo like that is never going to be as rigid as an old wooden set up, wooden uprights would be solid, probably around a 4x3 size ( just an approximation). Even with metal joiners within the frame joiners the upvc frame will still ' bounce ' a little on closing, ufortunately it is...

not sure what the difference in ' opening system ' would be... can't tell from that pic. If i'm understanding you right, you are after a ' wheelchair ' threshold type set up... which you won't be able to do by removing the cill AND the existing threshold, you'd struggle to get it weather...

it will definetly be profile specific, and thats an older type of bead. maybe ask local double glazing firms if they have any left from old windows they have replaced...its unlikely you will get it new

I do wonder if they are fitted the right way round , and that gasket would normally be internal? I'll search my desk drawers and see if I can get any Alutech brochures to see

yeah , i'm not so sure that that gasket should be sat like that either... normally its slightly back in so water passes straight over it ...that does look like a potential leak point as already stated. Don't think i've ever seen a gasket sitting ' flush ' with the outside frame like that, just...