Recent content by ronniecabers

Is it more chambers, or are they just claiming that? And if it is more chambers ( which i have my suspicion unless they know who you've also had quotes from and what profile they use ), then how much more expensive and will you ever ' recoup ' that in energy saving? Again though I refer to my...

That's a sound approach ( unless you have a door lifter lol )in my opinion. Only thing I'd do extra is put a view pencil lines on frame and sash so you have a datum point if all goes horribly wrong

These days all profiles are pretty much a much of a muchness, comes down to actual manufacturing quality of the window rather than the profile. Also fitting quality plays a huge part. A well made window badly fitted will be outperformed by a poorly made window well fitted.

And not a lot of fabricators will even entertain that idea... different profile or old profile, its just not worth it to them , personally id be going with Cranks suggestions

You may struggle to get the smaller beads out first , sometimes you need the flexibility of the longer bead to be able to prise it out. As goes refitting, if it has to be fire glass then there is clear fire glass available but it isnt cheap ( something like Pyrodur ), you'll have to glaze with...

12 inch will be fine , and align on the ' top' edge otherwise the sash will sit to high and wont close

Sliding, French, Bifold? Id agree with Mottie unless its Bifolds and in that case none are severe weather rated with a low threshold and will leak but your installer should have informed you of that if thats what you have fitted

Tbh , as a window company, we measure up, order , remove wall and window and refit. Removing the wall isn't too complicated, just a case of getting the cuts straight. Normally you'd expect the door to be sat above the damp course. I'm more worried that they appear not to know the height

Are they adjusting for compression or just adjusting to ' line it up' ? Thermal expansion shouldn't effect compression normally, normally its how the sash is sitting to close to the lock keeps is affected by thermal expansion as the door sash expands making the door rub on the keeps

Crank39 did mention earlier in this thread that the brush pile isn't the only gasket , there is a gasket on the outer rebate of the door frame, if the door is adjusted for compression correctly , and the door handle is pulled up every time to engage the locks, thus fully compressing the door on...

Which gearbox is it? I had issues with a new gearbox a while back on a customers door where it had been squashed ( somehow ) , just enough to stop the mechanism from working correctly. The internals of most gearboxes are actually fairly rudimentary, and the cam on the cylinder literally pushes...

It could be your door sash is warped. Might be worth trying to adjust where the door lock catches on the frame keeps.

Is there a gap.when you fully engage thr door lock , this getting compression , if so possibly bigge gasket

Sounds more likely to be a cylinder barrel issue if the key just turns

Should be ,yes