Recent content by ronniecabers

That's an awful job on the outside. As mentioned that needs the cement taking out and a brick cut to fit and then mortared back in correctly. When the cement is out I'd also be checking that the end of the cill is sealed where the frame meets it ( NOT the gap at the front, as Opps says thats...

OK, definetly foam up that entire gap top to bottom. Use gun grade foam rather than a can , as those cans don't offer any 'speed/volume' control and ot can go everywhere! Then retrim. I'd also be checking the outside for any potential area for water to penetrate but to suspect it was...

You can use foam there but bear in mind most foam isnt waterproof. The close up photos don't help us with a location etc. We have no context as to the surroundings to be able to be able to comment on damp

Usually its just the centre gearbox that goes wrong, Millenco gearboxes can be unscrewed with either a Phillips screw or a torx ( depends on age ) . Maybe worth taking out the old lock , disconnecting the gearbox, check the top and bottom bolts slide and work , if so replace the gearbox ...

Do you mean the actual door lock? If so no Millenco wont be a straight swap, the door keeps are likely to be in the wrong place on the main lock , and if its just the gearbox on the lock , then the latch and deadbolt are likely to be different, as well as fixing points and how it operates the...

In the particular photo example the line has no use , being on the hinge side. Ideally your frames shouldn't be ' warped' around screw heads but invariably there is a small amount as to make sure the screw is tight

They are just part of the glazing cassette , perfectly normal. Enables them to be removed if the glass needs changing

Not sure why they are threatening you with legal action when they cant supply the product you requested! The reason for the ' skin ' difference will be the fact its a short composite door , most composite door manufacturers only go down to 1972mm or 1950mm in certain circumstances. Usually...

I wouldn't use expanding foam as its generally not considered waterproof. As it appears the ends of the cill haven't been sealed where they meet the wall in the cavity area then unfortunately you may need to remove some plaster to get to the ends to seal them ... failing that call the...

Is it more chambers, or are they just claiming that? And if it is more chambers ( which i have my suspicion unless they know who you've also had quotes from and what profile they use ), then how much more expensive and will you ever ' recoup ' that in energy saving? Again though I refer to my...

That's a sound approach ( unless you have a door lifter lol )in my opinion. Only thing I'd do extra is put a view pencil lines on frame and sash so you have a datum point if all goes horribly wrong

These days all profiles are pretty much a much of a muchness, comes down to actual manufacturing quality of the window rather than the profile. Also fitting quality plays a huge part. A well made window badly fitted will be outperformed by a poorly made window well fitted.

And not a lot of fabricators will even entertain that idea... different profile or old profile, its just not worth it to them , personally id be going with Cranks suggestions

You may struggle to get the smaller beads out first , sometimes you need the flexibility of the longer bead to be able to prise it out. As goes refitting, if it has to be fire glass then there is clear fire glass available but it isnt cheap ( something like Pyrodur ), you'll have to glaze with...

12 inch will be fine , and align on the ' top' edge otherwise the sash will sit to high and wont close