Recent content by s79

Oh forgot to add...RE the back door contact, I understand UPVC type doors have aluminium construction, and that's why they affect the door contacts? Is that right? And i also read somewhere that that replacing the contact magnet with a more stronger Neo(something??) type magnet might help???

Hi all, I have a Yale HSA6400 wireless system, and I had a HSA6010 door contact for the front door which was working fine up until a few months ago. Now...i cant exactly remember why i attempted to change the battery on it.. the flashing LED perhaps? But anyway I changed it to a Duracell, and it...

I've installed the new controller but not had a chance to test it yet as I've been changing radiators (another separate issue!) Here is a picture of the back plate, prior to installing the new controller: http://www.flickr.com/photos/98549025@N05/11208638155/ (nb. the lettering reads A B C...

What/where is this "HW Off" terminal? Im assuming this is not referring to the controller but actually how the heating system is physically wired up? For info here is the wiring instructions diagram for the Potterton EP2 controller: http://www.flickr.com/photos/98549025@N05/11203007903/...

Again, many thanks to everyone who's replied, and apologies for my slow reply, was away for the weekend, so still not had chance to fit the controller! Will connect it shortly and set it to fully pumped for now. Although...now I'm getting the impression the heating system has run for 25+...

Many thanks for the replies guys, much appreciated. It looks like a unanimous vote for pumped then! Although....having said that... im still a little confused!!! :shock: As a family friend who is (genuinely) quite plumbing/heating savvy, and has seen my heating system first hand just...

Oh yeah, sorry, I think your right, my mistake. However i believe LightwaveRF is due to be releasing products that can do these tasks (i think?) shortly. http://www.megamanuk.com/lightwaverf/products/heating-controls-and-energy-monitoring/ This seems to show an automated boiler switch...

These products from LightwaveRF might be useful? http://www.lightwaverf.com/ http://www.screwfix.com/search.do?fh_search=lightwaverf http://www.screwfix.com/p/lightwaverf-wi-fi-link-lighting-power-heating-control/87613 They seem to cover raditator valves, lighting, heating and has an...

Very silly question but how do I work out what type of system i've got?? I'm currently swapping over the potterton controller/timer as the sliders have worn out (again), going from an EP2002 to an EP2. One of the initial settings the new controller needs is knowing wether the system is...

Thanks again for your reply Footprints, I topped up the header tank with approx 9-10 litres of water just this morning following installing the new rad last night. Is one single rad staying cold at the top a symptom of a system not being adequately topped up? Would it not affect more than...

Hi Footprints, No, I never saw any water out of the bleed screw at any stage with the problem rad i.e. when the old one was flushed or with the brand new one. Neither of the other two upstairs rads bled water either, but they were getting hot ok previously (before i messed around)...

Apologies...this is a slightly long post, but here's a quick summary to save you falling asleep: - Old style (30+ years old) boiler/CH system - Single rad in upstairs bedroom hot at the bottom/cold at top - Bleeding didn't work - Rad replaced - same problem - System now out of balance...

Hi all, in the above suggestion by Paul the Plumber, did Paul mean close "all" the rads on the floor or keep the valves open on the problem rad while running the system? And also did he mean bleed while the system is running?? Thanks

Many thanks for the replies, much appreciated. I should point out that im a novice when comes to all things plastering/rendering, so bare with me! But yes I will definitely fill the mortar joints asap. That part of the passage is expose to the elements (the only part that is) so i imagine...

Just to add that that same interior wall had a mould issue before too, which i think i resolved with Wykamol. p.s. how do i link the images properly in the posts?