Recent content by samparker

if you don't get heating, test the white wire, then the orange wire with HTG only on. if orange fails.... motor/actuator is faulty!

if the 3 port mid position valve was stuck in the HTG only position, then the heating would be on all the time though.... or you'd not get any hot water. as you say the valve could be stuck in the heating position; but there has to be an easier way of checking for that?!!! if ou remove all...

why all the fuss!! if your white wire is live when hw only is on, then the programmer is sending false signals - and is faulty!!!

you can test for a faulty pump without connecting it to an external supply - just test the voltage at the pump terminals-if there is 240v and the pump isn't working: it's knackered!

is the pump (if external to the boiler) working/working properley? - does it feel hot/vibrating to the touch...

maybe a faulty Ch thermostat/thermistor.....

actuator must be knackered. replace it if possible, if not, replace the whole 3port. sometimes, the microswitch #2 goes, which means you cannot get heating on its own, sometimes the motor fails and you only get h/w (thus need to move the lever across to get heating too, but only until the...

the tank connectors i have are brass, compression fitting type. i am not sure if i would feel safe if i had push fit joins on high pressure supplies in my loft!! as you say though they are obviously very good. what size diameter washers are good for tank connectors? ...

What size washers are best to buy, and in what size, for tank connectors to a cold water cistern in the loft? The tank connectors are 22mm and 15mm diameters. I know you can use rubber washer or plastic (polywashers)?? but would like to get the correct size first time instead of having to go...

the anticipator in some (mainly older ones but can still get them now) works by: the neutral wire is heated when the stat is calling, and as it heats up, it allows the temperature sensor in the room stat (bimetallic switch usually) to heat up a bit quicker (usually 5-6 degrees or so). This...

sounds like it could be a diverter valve problem if you have one (the 3 port type-mid position). IF you have one, then possibly when it is supposed to be in mid-position it is stalling and not staying there, maybe a faulty microswitch in the actuator (powerhead). very strange though as you...

anyone? ... also are check valves usually built in to showers? or will i need to buy one and fit it in the pipeline?

Hi I am to fit a new shower in my bathroom, and am using the original cold feed from the tank (dedicated to the old shower) which is in 15mm copper pipe. Is it possible for me to install a surrey flange in the top of the hot water cylinder, running the dedicated hot feed to the shower...