Recent content by seanuk

Thanks for the replies guys. Guess I’ll just replace it with a normal silver switch with the same connections.

Our new build have “fan boost” switches for the extractor fans which look to me like a standard light switch. It has connections on the back going to COM and L1. I wanted to swap it for this switch with an LED indicator light on it, but it has different connections (L + N, out and L + N in) Is...

Just looking for some advice on how to fit this 150mm pull out storage basket into this tight kitchen space. I’m likely being a bit dumb but for the life of me can’t figure out how I’m supposed to drill/screw the two brackets for this inside here because of how little space there is to get in...

I believe our boiler is a Baxi Platinum Compact Combi. Looking at the service manual and searching for "thermostat" it sounds like it may indeed be a 230V connection...

Thanks for the help so far. If the wires are not suitable, would I be able to use a standard plug like this https://www.amazon.co.uk/Plug-Bare-Ends-Power-Black/dp/B00UHS3656/ To connect to the live and neutrals of the Meross? Not the cleanest job but luckily there is a wall socket just below...

Thanks for your detailed response! Likely I’m being stupid asking but how would I connect the current brown COM to BOTH the new COM and the LIVE at the same time? Also, regarding the unconnected grey wire, assuming this is a neutral can I just strip some of the sleeve at the end and connect...

Apologies I wasn't sure if this would be better in the Electrics or central heating forum. I currently have a Danfoss thermostat which I wanted to switch out with the new Meross Smart one I purchased. Thinking this would be an easy swap but I've discovered the Danfoss seems to be battery...

Never mind, figured it out in the end. If anyone ends up with the same issue/question I have ended up with my two wires from the button going to the bottom two connections (like pictured) but without the jumper cable. Seems to all be powered and working fine.

Recently moved into a new house with a Byron chime and a basic button doorbell outside. Planned on replacing the button with a Ring Wired Doorbell but can’t get it to work at all. This is how I’ve installed the jumper cable that came with the Ring in the chime box, but I get no power to the...

It's UK Power Networks where I am in the East. Knew they'd be a catch. It's really annoying as like you've said it should be pretty straightforward. Can't understand why it was ever put right on top of a door frame any way, making it impossible to build anything around it which I believe is...

Just after a bit of advice regarding the location of our electric fuse box/meter etc which has always been in what I find a bit of a strange place (above a bedroom door on the upstairs landing). I'm aware I cannot do much in regards to moving any of it myself but I wondered what the process...

Hi, Currently in our kitchen we have a fused spur switch (looks like this) which controls a straightforward light outside above our back door entrance. Is there an "easy" way to change this to an ordinary light switch, so I could make it "smart" using a smart light switch, as smart fused...

Ah I see, I wouldn't think wrapping any of it in tape would be ideal or a good idea. Sounds a bit messy to be honest :D And nice to hear, thanks. Hopefully I have no more daft questions! I just like to make sure I've got it all right before attempting these things.

The base of the new light is quite chunky so I can't see why that'd be a problem. From a curiosity point though why does it have to be sitting in the light fitting, rather than 'above' it in the ceiling? Do the 3 wires have to go in a particular order in the 3-way connector, or does this not...

Apologies, I didn't see that beforehand. I'm aware I need some sort of terminal block to place the 3 red wires in, would these connectors from Wago work okay? The 3-way ones?