Recent content by shorky

invest in a bullfinch, change the nozzle for whichever situation you like, keep a rothenberger for the small/awkward ones :wink:

depends on the capacity of the cylinder, but if the original is the varem and its 18ltrs then an 18ltr i would stick with, has to be potable water vessel though. :wink:

if your soldering 28mm or above, forget a rothengerger type torch if thats what your using, you will need a bigger flame on it for that size, solder wont run properly as you wont get the heat even around that size of fitting :lol:

i had one done myself, cost around £900 for and old french bath, looks the bees knees but not cheap for he right results, £ 40 is gonna give you a poor finish.

pretty sure this would be deemed as an "at risk" being as it has electrics at 240v being within the spray of the shower this would definetly constitute a risk to life. not sure exactly what reg it would be under without reference but definate no no :shock:

You Think right :wink: Manufacturers will say what you want to hear to sell something, pump might be more expensive but you know it will work. glad you got shot of the other guy, sounds like everybody's worst nightmare :shock: T&G boards should be fine for your tank, but might not be...

ive always been more than happy with ideal standard, easy to level when fitted, better cast than cheaper stuff, same money you can get roca/twyfords etc but try to keep away from cheap cheap stuff, its poorly cast as i said before.

Is it on the swiftflow that there is a flat bracket on the top above the vessel, held down by four self tapers, if you cant get your head over the top it might be a struggle, failing that fit a vessel external to the boiler and you will have to forget about the original one, someone else might...

Hi chris, mi's normally specify nrv's so back syphonage does occur if the head is left in the tray if it fills up, never gonna happen but breaches water regs if not fitted, although being a hippocrit i dont use them on a gravity system, normally put them on the inlets to a shower pump though cos...

Sure these ev are valved at the top, have a good look at the top of the vessel, charged them on 80's before, but having the worst memory in the world i cant remember. The vessel definatly needs air in it if the pressures are going up that much.

Ss, take out the check valves as advised, within the valve, there crap, they are needed to comply with water regs but will hinder the flow under gravity, they can be put back if a pumps fitted but i would fit separate ones in the pipework at the pump. That base is well suspect, it looks like...

looking at the times of the postings that some of you have made, do you not need sleep :!: :shock:

ss, the last bit of pipe going into the valve reduced like that will not make a difference with a pump connected as the pressure can be the same with a pump as on mains pressure, same principles as a high pressure tap with a smaller bore, pump manufacturers like i said will require the shower...

SS, browsing these posts i haven't seen anyone ask nor have you posted whether the shower pipework is dedicated to the shower alone, i may have missed this if it is in an earlier post, so excuse me if i have, it is worth upsizing the pipework to the valve in 22mm as in the last picture because...

you may find it will be the paddle in the valve itself, had this on honeywells before, speed of the water moving slams the paddle shut instead of the valve moving at a slow speed, this normally makes a noise when you turn heating/hotwater on and off, all you can do is replace the complete/...