Recent content by simplesteve

Or better still - replace the panels with 18mm ply, build a frame, then tile it to match the walls. The panels can either be held on with magnetic catches at the back, or screwed on at a 'grout junction' of 4 tiles. :D To get back to your original post, there is nothing wrong with Tiling...

Check that your mosaics are the same thickness as your tiles. If they are thinner, you will need to 'build up' the depth at the back of them so everything is flat at the front. ( either with adhesive or a 'stick on' mesh )

Its just a question of personal preference - both of them are really good and excellent to use. Personally I would use Bal Rapidset Flexible ( on offer just now at CTD) for the floor and the Ply on the wall, and the Weber standard set + for the walls. Of course, a whole new debate will start...

You're right Richard - Thats not going anywhere ! :D Its good to see a good job done properly :)

Looking at the original post, and photograph, I would just chisel away the rough/loose plaster, then prime with an SBR ( Weber or even Topps own make) Then use a Rapid Setting Flexi Adhesive on the back of a Tiling Trowel to " plaster " your bonding / patching coat. You wont need to skim it...

The reason for the daft orientation is that the 2.8M side would butt- up against the out-house wall, and the fall/1M side lets all the rain drop straight off over a railway embankment wall ! ( no need for any guttering.) Ive just looked at twin wall polycarbonate sheet, ( flat obviously )...

There are usually 4 mains reasons this might happen :- 1. The grout has not been mixed properly before using 2. The grouting has been put in immediately after the tiles have been cleaned and has therefore been put onto a patch of water between the tiles. 3. The wrong colour of adhesive...

Blimey !! If you are confident that the toilet is fixed firmly to the floor and wont move, then I would wait until the floor is completely finished, then grout it, including around the gap ( flat, not raised ). Once the grout is dry I would then put a silicone bead over the top of it around...

Thanks guys; so much for my idea of buying 1 sheet and fitting it in a 'one-y' with no joins :-(

Deff Whits acrylic sheet as mentioned above. I would recommend Evo sticks 'sticks like s*@! ', and buy the slightly dearer 'clear ' one as your using it in a bathroom. Maybe you could run the cable for the extractor while you have the bath out !

I agree with most of what Ree above has said; but chances are the bath sits ON a batten runing the full length of the bath. I certainly wouldnt assume that the bottom row of tile are cuts, they might be whole. In that case every third or forth one will have a hole drilled in it for the...

If you are using White Grout, and where the 'slope tiles' are joing coving/architrave is also white, then I would go with that option. If the Grout is a contrast, then i would consider cutting the tiles. Two more things to consider; If the mosaics are coloured glass ( and not ceramic )...

Hi guys, I'm about to build a lean-to onto the end of an old out-house at the bottom of my garden, and aim to roof it with see thru currugated pvc. It will be about 2.8M long along the wall, with the over-hang of about 1M. My problem is in locating the Pvc sheeting. All I can see are sheets...

No need for Hardi, thats too good/expensive/heavy for your application. I wouldnt even use W.R. Plasterboard; just normal, cheap 9.5mm plasterboard will do you. If you Splashback height is the normal 480 (ish) mm, AND if your tiles are Ceramic ( not porcelain ) I would just dot-n-dab the...

Howdy 'neighbour', My pal in Kilwinning had his done over the last 2 days when it was absolutely bucketing - but as Thermo says, you cant do the Kiln finishing stuff until its dry. Easy enough done with a hired whacker which is cheap as chips.