Recent content by sirocosm

Here are some options I was thinking about. If the rafters were a little deeper, I think I would birdsmouth them for sure, but 25mm does not seem like much to rest on, but maybe it would be OK with a few screws. However, I must say that I have never seen one done that small.

Thanks Woody. I just went and measured the rafters, and they are not 4x2s, but more like 3x2s, they are slightly over 8cm deep and 5cm wide. That does not leave much room for a birdsmouth, aren't they supposed to be no more than 1/4 the depth of the rafter? Even at 1/3rd, that only leaves...

What is the best way to connect a load bearing knee wall to rafters in a loft? If I cut the stud on an angle, and attach them directly to the rafters, any downward load will tend to push the tops of the studs into the room, so I am looking for the best method to prevent that. I don't want to cut...

This is what I might do in the end, although making the forms and pouring the plinths would be a bit more work, but then I can also choose the shape. I just wondered if anyone had done it using concrete posts, and if it worked out OK.

As said a few posts back, I plan to build a single skin wall on a shallow footing a couple blocks high between the posts to make a boundary for the patio, but I don't think the wall will be substantial enough to bolt the posts to, so they would need to go to the ground.

Doesn't that more depend on how well they are attached? Would any other translucent roof sheeting be any better?

I am planning on making the roof out of clear polycarbonate sheets or something similar: I was going to frame the roof in timber. Since a wood beam will go atop the posts for the rafters to sit on, the posts need only be the height of a doorway, so I was thinking around 2m out of the ground...

That is an idea, although once the ugly bases are inside, you are kind of back to the same problem, with the wood disappearing inside masonry. I suppose one could try sealing it really well, but I am guessing over time it water would get in and have no way out. I though about putting them on...

I was thinking concrete posts that you can set in concrete that would go up all the way to the roof. I thought about building a mold and trying to cast something a little more decorative myself, but I am guessing they would be no where near as strong as fence posts, that are designed for lateral...

Around here you can get them up to 3m, so I think that will be fine for what I need, as they will only be at the "low" end of the roof. I was thinking about using steel as well.

I am thinking of building a covered patio attached to an outbuilding in the yard. I am planning to use polycarbonate roofing sheets, and frame it is pressure treated wood. For the posts, I don't want to use wood, because they always rot at the bottom, so I was thinking to use concrete fence...

I used the plasterboard adhesive foam, not the filler foam. I did some tests. For all these tests I left them overnight. 1) Stuck two pieces of Celotex together, foil on foil. 2) Removed the foil and stuck two pieces together, bare insulation board on bare insulation board. 3) Removed the foil...

I ended up putting strapping on the wall, that I made from the leftover floorboards I took up. They were 22mm, so I put 25mm Celotex in between, and another layer of 25mm Celotex over top to make 50mm. The Soudal does not stick to the foil on the Celotex at all, but it sticks great to the brick...

It does not seem to stick so well to the foil on the Celotex. Seems to stick to brick and drywall OK.

How much wiggle room does that stuff give you? Having taken the plaster off in one room, the brickwork is quite uneven, unlike in the video where the walls look nice and smooth.