Recent content by skywatch99

The boiler was taking some time to come on after a call for heat and then a few weeks ago I came home to a really hot house as the heating had been running all day! Boiling radiators and hot water in the tank. The room stat was satisfied so it should not have been running at all (the water is...

I will need to take it apart for repairs/upgrades/reprogramming, so a permanent seal is no good - might also need to replace batteries as well. So push fit is really what I need. I know it's available in Scandinavia and Europe, just not here it seems, I don't know why that is....

@Madrab - Thanks for the link - but they only do it in grey or black, no white. That's the problem everywhere in UK it seems.

Does anyone here know where I can get white 50mm plasitc pushfit pipe and fittings such as t-piece and endstop. I need 45mm inside diameter if possible and it has to be cheap too! (not using for pumbing but an outside project that needs to be waterproof but accessible for further work). It...

@stem - The old one was not a switch problem as I remember other than leaking water and tripping the breaker - could have been bad. @heatservice - I wonder about that too - maybe drill some small vent holes one day ..... As for today - all done and finished. Working as expected. I had to use...

I have the pcb out now - on with the repair! :)

Well I seem to have 2 with the same switch problem..... I have a switch that will do the job, I just need to get the pcb out without damaging anything (hate to pay £55-75 when a £1.00 switch will fix it). Something seems to be holding the pcb in position, I can lift both ends but always...

Your sketch matches my conclusion exactly.

@stem - Yes, the white wire DOES NOT connect to the motor live connector when the microswitch is 'at rest' (powered off). When the switch is depressed it DOES then connect the Grey wire to the motor live. The motor has 2 orange wires for power (L&N) so that is what I was referring to when I...

Thank you all for your input, especially on a Bank Holiday weekend... ;) I have put the 'spare' motor on and no change, so either I have 2 bad motors or it is something else. I do now know that there is *NO* 230V to the motor (across the orange wires) when I call for CH. The thermostat seems to...

Thanks for reply about motor windings, now I am confused again! :( I have edited my first post as I realised a mistaken assumption on my part had given me the wrong idea as to the problem. So in a nutshell I have the situation where at power on the diverter is in W. Turn on W and call for HW...

Good idea - but it got really cold so I have to have it manually working for now - will try again tomorrow. As I test I got HW working and then put on CH - no movement in the valve. Then I turned off HW and cycled CH off, then on again. Still no movement of the valve. But as soon as I manually...

Thanks for the hint. See my update (probably crossed with your post) - power is available or the motor wouldn't move when nudged. Motor measures 2500ohm, is this normal? (I have one other old motor and that is about the same, so assuming it is normal). What puzzles me is the changeover...

Just an update - I put the head back together again and the problem is still there - ie, CH call for heat = no movement on the valve head. BUT.... if I give it a nudge towards the mid position the motor 'kicks in' and takes it all the way to H. Now we have heat, but what is likely stopping this...

Hi all! Had no heating the other morning. Boiler runs fine and I found that the HW was hot. Seems that the ma-1 valve is not moving to the CH position. Putting it manually into CH got the house warm (so boiler/thermostat/wiring OK). The spindle in the pipe moves freely so not a locked up...