Recent content by stevehit

In an old copy of "Practical Mechanics" I have there is suggestion to make a sleeping bag from old sheets filled with asbestos...

FWIW I used the Salamander valve with my Aqualisa shower pump, as our hot water cylinder has a secondary coil heated by an Aga, and the water can easily exceed the maximum permitted by the pump (60 C I seem to recall). So, although the Salamander is expensive, you're only going to do this once...

You've probably done this, but I'd check that the inlet filters are clear. The schematic is probably only available from Aqualisa. Other than that, you can get processors on eBay relatively cheaply. There is also an eBay seller advertising a repair service for £48 - search eBay for aqualisa...

I hope the joints are soldered, or you have a disaster waiting to happen...

The white material looks like excess cavity wall insulation. We have similar material at various points under the floor, near external walls where there is a gap in the inner leaf.

In my experience, wooden window boards in bathrooms are fine, providing they are adequately sealed and you're not actually pouring water on them... I've used both solid wood hardwood and veneered MDF without issues, using Osmo Polyx as the finish.

I had this problem when I did may bathroom, over a year ago. I core drilled the wall, and slide a single pipe (no joins) from the outside, with no problems. (Someone on the inside to guide the end as you shove it through can avoid considerable frustration.) I also reinforced the joists where I'd...

This silicone remover is mainly citrus oils. You can therefore remove traces of it with white spirit, alcohol (meths or isopropanol) or similar. I wouldn't use vinegar.

Looks good. Yes, I agree expanding foam would be a good choice to fill in peripheral gaps and around pipes. Steve

Hi It's a perfectly reasonable question! Regardless, I've never had an issue with central heating pipes adversely affecting a dpm - the melting point of polyethylene of this type is at least 100 C Steve

Hi I think you have two choices: 1. Use an adhesive underlay, such as Envoy-MULTI. This has adhesive on the top surface to glue the boards. 2. Something like Taylor Nu-Flor Concrete Barrier (an epoxy primer) and then glue with Taylor Timberline MS Plus. Have a look at this Youtube video...

Yes, if the concrete is dusty a primer would generally be required to promote adhesion.

Hi Providing you use a good quality adhesive, gluing alone is fine. I've used Timberline MS Plus, but there are other brands that are good. What's vital is to ensure that the concrete substrate is completely dry and free from damp, otherwise you'll need to seal it with some sort of epoxy...

Hi Sorry, I've not come across 25mm OD copper pipe. If it was imperial 3/4 it would be just under 22mm, and imperial 1" is just under 28mm, so it doesn't sound like that. (If it is imperial, you can get different olives to use with metric fittings.) Steve

Hi In my experience (granted, not as extensive as many others on this forum) gate valves are worse than useless. I've never come across one (out of dozens) that completely shuts off the water. Full bore lever valves are, on the other hand, excellent, and I tend to use them wherever there is...